After three previous days skiing mountains that are to varying degrees unknown to people from outside Switzerland (or who don't ski in Central/Eastern Switzerland), I drove up and over Julier Pass from Bivio into St. Moritz: from Hooterville to Park Avenue.
Driving past Corvatsch:
In addition to Tony and Liz, a work colleague had been there in late January and similarly raved about it: huge, varied, high elevation, excellent lift infrastructure, uncrowded slopes, sunny, etc. The main reason I never even considered going there was the obvious one: perceived cost. I figured that mere mortals couldn't afford it unless as part of a group package, which isn't my cup of tea.
While you *can* spend your entire life savings to ski here for a week, within a few minutes of e-sleuthing (only five days before departure), I found lodging that was completely reasonable along with an even bigger surprise -- when you purchase lift tickets at your hotel front desk, the price is an astounding $37/day. At first, I thought it was a misprint, but apparently they've been doing this for a few years. Thus, between lift tickets, lodging (breakfast included), and access to the region's extensive bus and train network, my cost was approximately $130/day. For St. Moritz.
I awoke Monday morning to this view outside my window, looking out over Corviglia, which I'd call St. Moritz's Breckenridge, at least demographically:
Unfortunately, while on the tram from the valley, a storm front with heavy snow and 30 mph wind gusts moved in. Visibility quickly went from challenging to a virtual whiteout by 11 am. After killing almost two hours in a mid-mountain restaurant, I skied the rest of the afternoon on the new snow; however, the continuing flat light and low cloud banks hid the gorgeous surrounding scenery. Thus, no need to post pix/look at Tony's TR instead. So it goes in Alps above-treeline ski areas -- sometimes you get the bear; sometimes the bear gets you.
Tuesday was payback as it went bluebird with perfect mid-winter temps, the ideal day to hit what most people consider St. Moritz's premier area: Corvatsch. As always, the map doesn't convey the expansive feeling there:
I took a scenic half-hour bus ride past Silvaplaner Lake to the far looker's right, the Furtschellas sector, where you take a tram to mid-mountain, then a HSQ further up:
At the top of that chair, I immediately saw the Dolomite-esque rock outcroppings along the ridgeline that Tony noted:
I spent an hour here warming up on 1,600-vert runs:
There are two lakes on view from this sector, Silvaplaner:
And Silser:
The only thing that would've made this vista even more impressive is if the water below were unfrozen like in the Schwyz lake region that I visited three years ago; however, that's not an option at this elevation.
I moved skier's right to the Curtinella sector where I found a number of short but sweet powder lines with 6-8 inches from the previous day's storm in between the rocks (also skied by a FTOer recently). Due to the gusty storm, you had to choose your aspects to avoid wind-affected snow:
At 11:30, I stopped for an early lunch at the Rabguisa hut:
From Curtinella, there's a really nice groomer to the middle of the ski area and the scenic Hossa Hut:
Here in the Murtel sector were some nice offpiste lines alongside the boulder fields/rock gardens. Tracked and untracked skied equally well due to the low temps:
After doing four laps on that chair, I took the summit tram: "Just Heavenly" (it's more poetic in German):
This advert cracked me up with the woman enjoying these new ergonomic socks while her fellow model looks on stoically:
Conditions were fantastic: everything is direct-north facing and at this altitude, snow preservation is especially good.
Mid-afternoon nut pie and coffee overlooking the only south-facing slope in the entire resort:
The untracked skied superbly despite the blazing sun/I lapped it three times:
At 3:30, I decided to head down to the village via the 2,800-vert valley run.
It quickly turned to spring silk:
Reaching the treeline:
And you emerge right in the middle of town with a short skate past the Hotel Kempinski (the closest I'll probably get to staying there) and my bus stop followed by a three-minute ride to the hotel:
I hate using the term "Top Ten Day" because it's so overused, so let's call it a Top Ten Major Resort Day.
Driving past Corvatsch:
In addition to Tony and Liz, a work colleague had been there in late January and similarly raved about it: huge, varied, high elevation, excellent lift infrastructure, uncrowded slopes, sunny, etc. The main reason I never even considered going there was the obvious one: perceived cost. I figured that mere mortals couldn't afford it unless as part of a group package, which isn't my cup of tea.
While you *can* spend your entire life savings to ski here for a week, within a few minutes of e-sleuthing (only five days before departure), I found lodging that was completely reasonable along with an even bigger surprise -- when you purchase lift tickets at your hotel front desk, the price is an astounding $37/day. At first, I thought it was a misprint, but apparently they've been doing this for a few years. Thus, between lift tickets, lodging (breakfast included), and access to the region's extensive bus and train network, my cost was approximately $130/day. For St. Moritz.
I awoke Monday morning to this view outside my window, looking out over Corviglia, which I'd call St. Moritz's Breckenridge, at least demographically:
Unfortunately, while on the tram from the valley, a storm front with heavy snow and 30 mph wind gusts moved in. Visibility quickly went from challenging to a virtual whiteout by 11 am. After killing almost two hours in a mid-mountain restaurant, I skied the rest of the afternoon on the new snow; however, the continuing flat light and low cloud banks hid the gorgeous surrounding scenery. Thus, no need to post pix/look at Tony's TR instead. So it goes in Alps above-treeline ski areas -- sometimes you get the bear; sometimes the bear gets you.
Tuesday was payback as it went bluebird with perfect mid-winter temps, the ideal day to hit what most people consider St. Moritz's premier area: Corvatsch. As always, the map doesn't convey the expansive feeling there:
I took a scenic half-hour bus ride past Silvaplaner Lake to the far looker's right, the Furtschellas sector, where you take a tram to mid-mountain, then a HSQ further up:
At the top of that chair, I immediately saw the Dolomite-esque rock outcroppings along the ridgeline that Tony noted:
I spent an hour here warming up on 1,600-vert runs:
There are two lakes on view from this sector, Silvaplaner:
And Silser:
The only thing that would've made this vista even more impressive is if the water below were unfrozen like in the Schwyz lake region that I visited three years ago; however, that's not an option at this elevation.
I moved skier's right to the Curtinella sector where I found a number of short but sweet powder lines with 6-8 inches from the previous day's storm in between the rocks (also skied by a FTOer recently). Due to the gusty storm, you had to choose your aspects to avoid wind-affected snow:
At 11:30, I stopped for an early lunch at the Rabguisa hut:
From Curtinella, there's a really nice groomer to the middle of the ski area and the scenic Hossa Hut:
Here in the Murtel sector were some nice offpiste lines alongside the boulder fields/rock gardens. Tracked and untracked skied equally well due to the low temps:
After doing four laps on that chair, I took the summit tram: "Just Heavenly" (it's more poetic in German):
This advert cracked me up with the woman enjoying these new ergonomic socks while her fellow model looks on stoically:
Conditions were fantastic: everything is direct-north facing and at this altitude, snow preservation is especially good.
Mid-afternoon nut pie and coffee overlooking the only south-facing slope in the entire resort:
The untracked skied superbly despite the blazing sun/I lapped it three times:
At 3:30, I decided to head down to the village via the 2,800-vert valley run.
It quickly turned to spring silk:
Reaching the treeline:
And you emerge right in the middle of town with a short skate past the Hotel Kempinski (the closest I'll probably get to staying there) and my bus stop followed by a three-minute ride to the hotel:
I hate using the term "Top Ten Day" because it's so overused, so let's call it a Top Ten Major Resort Day.
