By the time we left the Monterosa region Jan. 26 we knew clear weather was forecast through at least Jan. 30, so we decided to go to Chamonix after Cervinia and reserved a guide for the Vallee Blanche. Liz and I had both taken our first ski trips to the Alps to Chamonix, she in 2001 and I in 2004. viewtopic.php?f=5&t=5549 Liz had been skunked by the weather in 2001 so I was eager to show her the real Chamonix skiing she missed last time. We were in a guided group from Evolution 2 http://www.evolution2-chamonix.com/ that included two British skiers, Ian and his daughter Hannah.
The upper Aiguille du Midi tram climbs 5,000 feet in a single span.
When we exit the tram we have this view of Mont Blanc.
We also see the ridge we must descend with ropes and crampons before we start skiing.
But first we took the elevator 200 feet up to the top observation deck at 12,600 feet. Here is the view of Grands Jurasses, the Vallee Blanche and at distance the Matterhorn, the sharp point to the right of the high mountain at left.
The ridge descent seemed more difficult than in 2004. I’m sure it varies by season depending upon snow and wind deposition. The other issue was that I was sick, and as I’ve observed before altitude sensitivity goes way up when you’re not feeling well. The rope descent requires one step at a time concentration, but when it was over I was completely exhausted. View back up to the Aiguille de Midi tram and observation deck:
Liz is ready to start skiing now.
Fortunately in my dazed condition the initial skiing is quite mellow.
There was some fresh snow up high and I tried to stay in it to minimize effort.
About 2,000 feet down we get closer to glacial features.
Liz and our guide Pascal with view to Point Helbronner:
The two trams suspended at upper right connect Point Helbronner to the Aiguille de Midi but only operate in summer. But you can take another tram up from Italy in winter and ski the Vallee Blanche from Point Helbronner.
The middle section of the Vallee Blanche Classic Route occasionally steepens to a more intermediate pitch.
The Refuge du Requin where our NASJA group had lunch in 2004 is circled in red.
Here I’m on the steepest part of the Classic Route.
The Classic Route comes in from the left of the big rock while the Envers du Plan routes join it from the right.
Another group here is skiing closer to the ice formations.
Soon we move closer to the ice too.
We ski over the start of a new crevasse.
We stopped for lunch at a small rock outcropping. I hadn’t read that we were supposed to bring lunch. Ian gave me a candy bar which probably helped raise my energy level along with the decreasing altitude.
The local crows liked to hang out in this area too.
They are smaller than our mountain crows in the Sierra and have yellow beaks and red feet instead of being 100% black.
Refuge du Requin is circled in red as viewed from our lunch stop. To the right of the refuge are some steeper skiable lines.
Zoomed view of some skiers:
Shortly after lunch we skied through some small ice formations.
We are now on the Mer du Glace where two glaciers join, looking back up Vallee Blanche.
Skiing the Mer du Glace:
There were many more rock and ice outcroppings here in 2004, presumably buried in this season’s deep snowpack.
We see more ice as we approach the toe of the glacier.
Skiing normally ends with the glacier. You walk up a 200 foot metal stairway to a gondola.
From the top of the gondola you take the Montenvers train back to Chamonix.
But this is one of the rare years you can ski to town. In 2004, Patrick said this is possible in about 15% of seasons. Looking back up, the lower part of the metal stairway is visible at right.
Down here we get a better view of the Dru than in 2004.
There is a catch to skiing into town. We only ski about 500 feet lower in the valley below Mer du Glace.
At center and slightly left you can see a line of people clustered. They are removing skis and putting them on packs. We have to ascend a 500 vertical bootpack, fairly similar to ascending Baldy from Sugarloaf at Alta. Fortunately in my ill condition the hike is at a manageable altitude of 4,500 – 5,000 feet.
Top of the bootpack:
Refreshments are conveniently available here.
The final 2,000 vertical into town is along a forest road. Here I cross the Montenvers train track.
Total vertical was 9,000. Of that 7,100 was continuous to where we hiked up to the forest road.
The upper Aiguille du Midi tram climbs 5,000 feet in a single span.
When we exit the tram we have this view of Mont Blanc.
We also see the ridge we must descend with ropes and crampons before we start skiing.
But first we took the elevator 200 feet up to the top observation deck at 12,600 feet. Here is the view of Grands Jurasses, the Vallee Blanche and at distance the Matterhorn, the sharp point to the right of the high mountain at left.
The ridge descent seemed more difficult than in 2004. I’m sure it varies by season depending upon snow and wind deposition. The other issue was that I was sick, and as I’ve observed before altitude sensitivity goes way up when you’re not feeling well. The rope descent requires one step at a time concentration, but when it was over I was completely exhausted. View back up to the Aiguille de Midi tram and observation deck:
Liz is ready to start skiing now.
Fortunately in my dazed condition the initial skiing is quite mellow.
There was some fresh snow up high and I tried to stay in it to minimize effort.
About 2,000 feet down we get closer to glacial features.
Liz and our guide Pascal with view to Point Helbronner:
The two trams suspended at upper right connect Point Helbronner to the Aiguille de Midi but only operate in summer. But you can take another tram up from Italy in winter and ski the Vallee Blanche from Point Helbronner.
The middle section of the Vallee Blanche Classic Route occasionally steepens to a more intermediate pitch.
The Refuge du Requin where our NASJA group had lunch in 2004 is circled in red.
Here I’m on the steepest part of the Classic Route.
The Classic Route comes in from the left of the big rock while the Envers du Plan routes join it from the right.
Another group here is skiing closer to the ice formations.
Soon we move closer to the ice too.
We ski over the start of a new crevasse.
We stopped for lunch at a small rock outcropping. I hadn’t read that we were supposed to bring lunch. Ian gave me a candy bar which probably helped raise my energy level along with the decreasing altitude.
The local crows liked to hang out in this area too.
They are smaller than our mountain crows in the Sierra and have yellow beaks and red feet instead of being 100% black.
Refuge du Requin is circled in red as viewed from our lunch stop. To the right of the refuge are some steeper skiable lines.
Zoomed view of some skiers:
Shortly after lunch we skied through some small ice formations.
We are now on the Mer du Glace where two glaciers join, looking back up Vallee Blanche.
Skiing the Mer du Glace:
There were many more rock and ice outcroppings here in 2004, presumably buried in this season’s deep snowpack.
We see more ice as we approach the toe of the glacier.
Skiing normally ends with the glacier. You walk up a 200 foot metal stairway to a gondola.
From the top of the gondola you take the Montenvers train back to Chamonix.
But this is one of the rare years you can ski to town. In 2004, Patrick said this is possible in about 15% of seasons. Looking back up, the lower part of the metal stairway is visible at right.
Down here we get a better view of the Dru than in 2004.
There is a catch to skiing into town. We only ski about 500 feet lower in the valley below Mer du Glace.
At center and slightly left you can see a line of people clustered. They are removing skis and putting them on packs. We have to ascend a 500 vertical bootpack, fairly similar to ascending Baldy from Sugarloaf at Alta. Fortunately in my ill condition the hike is at a manageable altitude of 4,500 – 5,000 feet.
Top of the bootpack:
Refreshments are conveniently available here.
The final 2,000 vertical into town is along a forest road. Here I cross the Montenvers train track.
Total vertical was 9,000. Of that 7,100 was continuous to where we hiked up to the forest road.
