La Grave, 3/2-4/2008

Tony Crocker

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I'm on Extremely Canadian's tour to La Grave. There are 6 of us, 2 Americans and 4 Brits, plus 2 EC coaches and 2 local guides. Local guides makes the calls on safety and conditions.

It last snowed here Feb. 6, so conditions are less than ideal; It's somewhat analogous to the situation in Chile 6 months ago, particularly at Arpa snowcat, which is similarly nearly all ungroomed terrain.

Of course the scale here is much bigger, as it would be comparing to nearly anything. The gondolas rise from the town at 4,700 to the P1 station at 5,600, the P2 station at 7,800 and the top station at 10,500. A poma on glacier goes up to 11,700.

The glacier and terrain in general down to about 9,000 is still winter snow, but a mix of chalk, wind sift and some irregularities, similar to high south exposures at Arpa last September.

Exposure is mostly north, and while it was -3C at 10,500 it had obviously been much warmer sometime in February, because everything below 8,500 had been through a melt/freeze and most of it remained firm. Tree line is about 7,000 and getting down to the P1 from there was mostly frozen granular traverses and bumps.

The main objective here is to ski the long couloirs that are much more abundant than in lift accessible North America. Sunday was mostly a warmup day while they assessed our skiing. Monday we did a couple of couloirs. The Patou was in the 35 degree range but the top had a ledge dropoff into a short section only one ski length wide. So the guides used this the opportunity to show us how step over and slide in with aid of a rope. The Bear Couloir was probably only 30 degrees, but it narrowed to a crux, and since it faced east and we skied it at 4PM snow conditions were the biggest challenge. Some of my Baldy lower chair experience came in handy here.

Monday was windy up top and some clouds moved in by 6-7PM. They are calling for 6 inches or so tomorrow. La Grave may not be an ideal place to ski in foul weather, so we might go somewhere else. Les Deux Alpes, Alp d'Huez and Serre Chevalier are all fairly close. The EC and local guides make the call each day where to ski, so as at Las Lenas in 2005 Extremely Canadian will adjust to circumstances on the fly to make the best of each situation.

We are provided free demos from a Rossignol shop in town, which EC strongly encourages since La Grave tends to be tough on equipment. I used my new Mantras Sunday and the Rossi demo B94 at 176cm Monday. The demos are close enough that I will probably spare the Mantras the hardpack and rocks the rest of the week.

The Hotel Edelweiss where we are staying is also the Euro test center for Black Diamond, so I might try the Verdict or Kilowatt later.
 
Funny, I was just looking at Coombs' La Grave Steep camp info last night.

La Grave...on my short list since 2000. Came sooooo close on my last trip to Europe in 2003.

Happy you made it.

EC... EC...:shock: :shock: :shock:

Environment Canada? nope.
Elections Canada? not this time. :wink:
East Coast coaches? possible.
Eastern Canadian coaches? very possible.

It took the second reference (regarding the making the call) to realize it was the acronym for Extremely Canadian coaches. :wink:

PS. I have no experience regarding Les Deux Alpes or Serre-Chevalier. But from my understanding, Alpe d'Huez is the most interesting of the three. Are you planing to add a few areas during this trip? What kind of question is that? :lol:
 
I make no decisions on where to ski on this trip. When you see the terrain here you'll know why. Patrick's instincts are correct. With his skill set and desire for unique ski experiences, he should definitely come here.

Last night's storm was a bust. But it drove the top temps down to -11C. Not an auspicious start. Nonetheless today was a memorable day of skiing.

We skied the La Vaute drainage below the glacier all the way to the valley floor. Signs warn at about 10,000 feet not to descend in this direction without climbing gear. A series of bowls and short couloirs descends to about 8,100. Then we climb up maybe 50 feet to an anchor set into the rock for a 100 foot rope rappel into the longest couloir I've ever been near.

This La Vaute couloir was maybe 30 feet wide and 35+ degrees in decent snow protected by the towering rock walls to about 7,000. From there the snow turned harder but the pitch was still 30+. One of our group, Tina, took a fall that I did not see but was arrested by our guide Joe who was shadowing her closely. The descent for the rest of the couloir to 5,600 was done very deliberately, including a short section using ropes while sideslipping past a few rocks.

Then some bushwacking down to the road and taxi pickup at 4,500. We got down there about 3:15. With now cloudy weather and a prospective bulletproof descent to the P1 if we went up again, we called it a day. Certainly the toughest 8,800 vertical day of skiing I've ever had.
 
Tony Crocker":3dt773nd said:
I make no decisions on where to ski on this trip.
I was wondering if you were spending some extra time outside the Extremely Canadian part?

Tony Crocker":3dt773nd said:
With his skill set and desire for unique ski experiences, he should definitely come here.

That is why it's on my very short list.

Tony Crocker":3dt773nd said:
One of our group, Tina, took a fall that I did not see but was arrested by our guide Joe who was shadowing her closely.

This is the part that freaks me out. Guides arresting skiers from sliding. You needs some balls to do this (talking about the guides putting themselves in danger like that). I remember a few years back reading something like that for guides guiding off-piste at Alpe d'Huez.

What is the physical conditioning requirements? I always thought I was in fairly good shape until I was made to feel like I was totally out-of-shape compared to superman Lucky in the Shames backcountry. :oops:
 
Patrick":p185iecp said:
What is the physical conditioning requirements?

Consider your information source. :lol:

Oh, hell...I'm just jealous of TC visiting one of my all-time to-do places.
 
Tony Crocker":cfd934tg said:
I'm on Extremely Canadian's tour to La Grave. There are 6 of us, 2 Americans and 4 Brits, plus 2 EC coaches and 2 local guides. Local guides makes the calls on safety and conditions.

It last snowed here Feb. 6, so conditions are less than ideal;

That's unfortunate, but not out of the ordinary in the Alps. After a great start things seemed to have slowed down.

The main objective here is to ski the long couloirs that are much more abundant than in lift accessible North America. Sunday was mostly a warmup day while they assessed our skiing. Monday we did a couple of couloirs. The Patou was in the 35 degree range but the top had a ledge dropoff into a short section only one ski length wide. So the guides used this the opportunity to show us how step over and slide in with aid of a rope. The Bear Couloir was probably only 30 degrees, but it narrowed to a crux, and since it faced east and we skied it at 4PM snow conditions were the biggest challenge. Some of my Baldy lower chair experience came in handy here.

Which is the Bear? I do not recall that. I will have to translate into French.

La Grave may not be an ideal place to ski in foul weather, so we might go somewhere else. Les Deux Alpes, Alp d'Huez and Serre Cevalier are all fairly close. The EC and local guides make the call each day where to ski

La Grave really isn't a bad weather place. Often, the lift is shut down. Or just opened to p2. And technical skiing is not really aided by wind/new snow always.

Serre Chevalier skied more like a typical North American resort the day I was there with 8-12" new since the topography is not quite as extreme as others and there are more trees - like North Am., unlike Europe. And without powder hounds.

Les 2 Alpes had a narrow, elongated layout which detracted from the resort - but there were some very nice pockets of serious, fun terrain.

We are provided free demos from a Rossignol shop in town, which EC strongly encourages since La Grave tends to be tough on equipment. I used my new Mantras Sunday and the Rossi demo B94 at 176cm Monday. The demos are close enough that I will probably spare the Mantras the hardpack and rocks the rest of the week.

I would really spare my skis. Fresh snow hid a lot of glacier rocks/debris that lurk. Also, the couloir entrances can require a lot of rock scaling/dodging.
 
Tony Crocker:xa99b457 said:
We skiied the La Voutte drainage below the glacier all the way to the valley floor. Signs warn at about 10,000 feet not to descend in this direction without climbing gear. A series of bowls and short couloirs descends to about 8,100. Then we climb up maybe 50 feet to an anchor set into the rock for a 100 foot rope rappel into the longest couloir I've ever been near.

This La Voutte couloir was maybe 30 feet wide and 35+ degrees in decent snow protected by the towering rock walls to about 7,000. From there the snow turned harder but the pitch was still 30+. One of our group, Tina, took a fall that I did not see but was arrested by our guide Joe who was shadowing her closely. The descent for the rest of the couloir to 5,600 was done very deliberately, including a short section using ropes while sideslipping past a few rocks.

Then some bushwacking down to the road and taxi pickup at 4,500. We got down there about 3:15. With now cloudy weather and a prospective bulletproof descent to the P1 if we went up again, we called it a day. Certainly the toughest 8,800 vertical day of skiing I've ever had.

Great to see you are getting into some of the long couloirs to the road. That was in my group's plans/desires but the La Grave gondola being closed 2 out of the 4 days (snow for 3/4 days) scrapped this - sending us to Serre Chevalier and Les 2 Alpes. We mostly got to ski the 'near' couloirs/glacier routes. Fréaux was the couloir-to-road. Cannot wait to hear about more routes. As for vertical feet skied, La Grave definitely emphasizes quality over quantity.

Not sure if you are checking out this site, but is even better than the Off-piste La Grave guidebook for route descriptions (example below) http://www.skierslodge.com/legend/

LÓrciére de Gauche "La Vaute"
Vertical drop: 2 400 m
Facing: North
Technical difficulty: Very serious. Risk of seracs falls. Crevasses. High risk of slipping on hardpacked

Either start from P3 3200m or from Dome da la Lauze 3550m. La Vaute start like the same route as l´Orciére de Droite but after the first rappel you hike up approx 100m.

There is an rappel anchor wich requires two 40 meter ropes, the minimum lenght. Once you are in the big couloir you need to be fast because you are exposed 500 m above your head of overhanging glaciers. Risk of seracs falls. Watch out for possible windslabs and build-ups of snow. This is one of the best elevator drop in the region.
La Vaute.jpg
 
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Holy crap..i wouldn't go up or down any thing like that with out a harness ,crampons , ice axe and rope.
very impressed..
 
Tony Crocker":5nycq7fg said:
Trust ChrisC to illustrate it better than I could.
Thanks Chris. This link will go to my favorites and join the Shames backcountry site. 8)
 
This link will go to my favorites and join the Shames backcountry site.
That site is controversial here, as guides are concerned that some yahoos are going to come here and think they can use that site to navigate around La Grave.

i wouldn't go up or down any thing like that with out a harness ,crampons , ice axe and rope. very impressed.
As I said, there are signs on the glacier warning not to descend further without mountaineering gear.
 
Tony Crocker":1ydo7wos said:
That site is controversial here, as guides are concerned that some yahoos are going to come here and think they can use that site to navigate around La Grave.

If some yahoos are so stupid to go into these couloirs without a guide or extensive knowledge of the terrain, they are really stupid and could be nominated for a Darwin award.
 
Tony Crocker":1lpedxvn said:
That site is controversial here, as guides are concerned that some yahoos are going to come here and think they can use that site to navigate around La Grave.

I think that is a little much. The Skier's Lodge site is probably much better than a lot of second-hand information that gets tossed about. Also, it's written by someone who really helped put La Grave on the map - Pelle Lang.

The website is simply a modern form of 'the' La Grave guidebook. http://www.editionsvamos.com/index.php? ... p&Itemid=8

I think there might be some concern expressed over any source that might erode the standing of a unionized French workforce. We had quite a few snotty comments expressed over our hired certified guide --who grew up in the region, knew it, placed top in the Derby de la Meije, but yet was based in Chamonix and willing to guide at below La Grave guide bureau rates.
 
It did occur to me that there could have been an ulterior motive in Joe's comment about the website. Joe is an American who has been guiding La Grave for 5 years. He's also the one who saved Tina's ass yesterday, so I have certain respect for his competence.

Bear isn't much of a couloir by La Grave standards, just a funnel opening in rock band. The major challenge there was late, partially refrozen snow conditions.

Patou and Banana (skied by half the group) drop into a frozen lake around 9,000 feet one drainage skier's left of the tram line.
 
Tony Crocker":3eet1xlf said:
It did occur to me that there could have been an ulterior motive in Joe's comment about the website. Joe is an American who has been guiding La Grave for 5 years. He's also the one who saved Tina's ass yesterday, so I have certain respect for his competence.

I have a British friend who operated illegally as a guide/instructor for a year in St. Anton and another in Val d'Isere. Despite EU regulations trying to remove work barriers, it is virtually impossible to get an official job with a French based guide outfit or ski school - especially for a season.

However, a strong unofficial guide/instructor market exists - primarily for English speakers (UK, US, Aussie, NZ).

Ability seems to have no connection to employment.

However, I was very impressed with this credential. And would hire anyone possessing it regardless of employment organization.

International Federation of Mountain Guides Association Certification

IFMGA-certified mountain guides are required to meet established standards in the three disciplines of rock, alpine and ski mountaineering, graduating from two levels of intensive training and field work in each before passing exams that qualify them as aspiring guides, working with licensed mentors until full certification. An ambitious guide might earn an IFMGA pin after four years, although most take longer.
 
Pictures from March 2:

Upper glacier surface lift:
030208_poma.JPG


Beginnings of a crevasse:
030208_crevasse.JPG


Banana Couloir:
030208_banana.JPG


Patou Couloir
030208_patou.JPG


Open descent within view of the gondola:
030208_glacier.JPG

030208_underlift.JPG


Toe of glacier:
030208_serac.JPG


Doug Coomb's car in the parking lot, nearly 2 years after his untimely death here:
030208_dougscar.JPG
 
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Pictures from March 3.

Steep training on open slope:
030308_test41.JPG


Skiing Patou Couloir:
030308_uppatou.JPG

030308_downpatou.jpg

030308_banana.JPG


Bear Couloir:
030308_downbear.JPG

030308_upbear.JPG


La Meije alpenglow:
030308_lameije.JPG


Gondola cut below tree line:
030308_P1P2.JPG
 
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