Deer Valley, UT 1/18/09

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Day 26: Blue skies, warm sun

Tony Crocker and I headed over to Deer Valley for Sunday. I've admittedly only skied there once since moving here four years ago now, so I was long overdue for a visit.

Deer Valley does what it does extremely well. Customer service is second to none. Ditto for the food. Miles and miles of groomed cruisers are lined everywhere...and I mean everywhere...with slopeside lodging ranging from hotels to condos to $25 million trophy homes.

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What I hadn't counted on, however, were the crowds on the trails. In past years, Sundance was a prime time to visit neighboring Park City Mountain Resort because even though the town was packed, the slopes were empty. Not so with Deer Valley.

Why? I've got a couple of theories. Perhaps it's because so many Sundance attendees rent houses at Deer Valley. Maybe their target demographic fits most closely with the typical Sundance attendee. Whatever the reason, though, while liftlines were minimal to non-existent thanks to Deer Valley's ample uphill capacity, many runs featured the human slalom, which isn't likely to be admitted as an Olympic event any time soon. Not unexpectedly, trails directly beneath or within sight of lifts were the most crowded, often with a nearly deserted run right next to it.

With all of that traffic, many of Deer Valley's famed corduroy cruisers were worn down to the scratchy man-made base by mid-afternoon. It's admittedly been a challenging weather week here in Utah, but surfaces felt inordinately scratchy to me. Maybe it's just me, for some chair companions disagreed with my assessment. Most off-piste areas were too stiff to be pleasant, including what we found during an ill-conceived foray into Ontario Bowl.

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Food, as always, was to die for, including a grilled salmon filet on ciabatta bread for lunch at Empire Canyon Lodge.

We spent most of the day working from one end of the resort to the other. The new Lady Morgan Express has some truly "sporting" lines directly beneath the chair. The Daly Chutes are as steep a bit of terrain as you're likely to find anywhere, although there was still some vegetation poking up here and there, and midway down they were speckled with sharp bumps, not something I was looking for with tired legs and skis with a 32m turning radius. We even got down to the base of the Jordanelle Gondola, gawking all the while at the trophy homes with their own private ski runs (complete with snowmaking and grooming).

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The mountaintop St. Regis Deer Crest hotel under development is mind-blowing, complete with a funicular railway that will connect the hotel with Deer Valley's Snow Park base area below.

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Views from Stein's Way on Bald Mt. stretched as far as the eye could see.

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Tony finished up with a trip through the bumps in Empire Bowl as I took a cruiser before working our way back to Snow Park by 3:30.

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All in all it was a very good day, albeit quite different from the other Utah experience. For those looking for luxury and comfort, Deer Valley delivers in spades.
 
A few comments:

Ontario Bowl had enough sun to soften partially but then had a breakable crust. This lessened my interest in checking out the similarly exposed Mayflower Bowl.

On an absolute scale, admin's snow surface comments sound like nitpicking. But I certainly recognized the snowmaking subsurface from my experience at Big Bear. The bottom line is that the majority of terrain at all 3 Park City areas gets less than half as much natural snow as Alta/Snowbird, so the snowmaking is essential, particularly at lower elevation.

During my March visits I've found Deer Valley's surfaces to be generally better than Park City or The Canyons, which often have widespread spring conditions vs. more north exposure at Deer Valley. So I think this time it was the combination of lesser natural snowpack and the extra skier traffic from Sundance. I've also been in the Daly Chutes in March, more filled in and they skied much better.

That last mogul run in Empire Bowl had the most consistent snow. It was natural snow, slightly sun softened where illuminated in the picture, then dry chalk where it rolled over into the shade. Admin commented that Empire Bowl, adjacent to Park City's McConkey Bowl, probably gets the most natural snow within the vast sprawl of Deer Valley's terrain.
 
Say what you want about the foo foo nature of Deer Valley. My family absolutely loved the place. Even my wife who skis 2 times a season had a great time.
There is something to be said for eating on real china in a nice cafeteria too . I could eat that damn turkey chili everyday.,
 
jasoncapecod":2a7zt47i said:
Say what you want about the foo foo nature of Deer Valley. My family absolutely loved the place. Even my wife who skis 2 times a season had a great time.
There is something to be said for eating on real china in a nice cafeteria too . I could eat that damn turkey chili everyday.
Deer Valley absolutely excels at customer service. It's not necessarily DV that is foo-foo, but a big percentage of their clientele is, hence the reputation. I can't think of a more perfect place for someone like your wife who skis 2 times a season, and there's an ample amount (far, far more than most think) of more difficult terrain for the advanced and expert skiers. (See for yourself. Ask for the "Experts" trail map at the DV ticket window.)

Regarding the food, I wish that every other ski area could get at least half-way to DV's selection and standards of excellence. At Alf's Restaurant at Alta yesterday, the woman in front of me spent about $14 on her lunch of a ham sandwich, apple, bottled water, and cookie. Compare that to what $14 or $15 might buy at DV (admittedly the few times I ski DV my lunch is around $22) - orders of magnitude better.
 
I totally concur with MarcC's comments. It was no accident that I chose Deer Valley 2 years ago for Becky's first day back on skis after a 10 year layoff.

And the food is, as MarcC mentions, marginally more expensive than most on-hill cafeterias but light years beyond in quality. It's the reason they will never drop the ropes between Deer Valley and Park City. The Deer Valley restaurants would be overrun. I'd do it every time I skied Park City if I had the option. My lunch for $18.50 was a Cuban pork salad (optionally available like admin's salmon in sandwich form) and a decadent piece of Viennese chocolate hazelnut cake.
 
Through work I could get a freebie place to stay at Deer Valley. Apparently a very nice place. But from the info in the TR and description...sounds like I'd be happier at Alta and/or the bird. For me it's all about the snow. And I'm not in to watching a bunch of over the top affluence between runs.
 
jasoncapecod":2mqtsywx said:
Marc , It's hard not to be happy at Deer Valley.. Just rent a car and pop over to LCC...

I've only skied there twice, and both times only a half day. I will say the food is vastly superior to any ski area I've ever been to. Although I will say the bathrooms at snowbasin were nicer. The skiing I found was alright, but compared to Alta and Snowbird the skiing was vastly inferior. However, if you are getting a freebie place to stay, then why not?
 
Best food I ever had skiing was in the huts in Arosa, Switzerland. Each hut is an ancient high altitude structure. They are family run...by the same families for generations. Food is excellent homemade soups, salads, spec...swiss german stuff. And the huts are totally dialed in for service. One server takes orders on a wireless device and it goes right back into the kitchen. Even on the busiest days, good hot food comes out in ten minutes.

Of course my goal when eating on a ski day is to getting something decent with a minimum of hassle and get back out on the hill. Lingering over a 5 star meal would make my brain explode.

I don't expect to be able to convince anyone that my way is best. Which is ok, because there is no need to do so. If I was going to ski Alta, I'd want to stay as close as I could.
 
Harvey44":3dvx88nf said:
If I was going to ski Alta, I'd want to stay as close as I could.

And if I recall correctly you've had an offer to stay for free in a little auberge precisely 23 minutes from Alta's slopes.
 
Harvey44":99exzs0h said:
Of course my goal when eating on a ski day is to getting something decent with a minimum of hassle and get back out on the hill. Lingering over a 5 star meal would make my brain explode.
That's just sad, yet typically northeastern.
 
The majority of food at Deer Valley is served via cafeteria and thus takes no longer than at other ski areas if that's what you want. On a couple of my March trips we've had sit down lunches at the Rustler Lodge at Alta and I've not felt deprived of ski time there either.

Of course my goal when eating on a ski day is to getting something decent with a minimum of hassle and get back out on the hill. Lingering over a 5 star meal would make my brain explode.
I remember those days. And my Christmas week at Alta in 1986-87 was the worst: 45 minute lines, only 12K vertical skiing bell-to-bell. Thankfully those days are over at most ski areas I've seen in the past decade at least. There's plenty of time for 20K+ of demanding skiing plus a nice lunch at most places now.

While the first high speed lift in North America was at Breckenridge to clear one of its base areas, the real revolution began when Vail installed 4 of them for 1985-86, fortuitously the first season I skied there. I later read that lunch business at Vail Village restaurants skyrocketed because many people skied the same amount as before but now had time for longer and better lunches.
 
Marc_C":2cdo76br said:
Harvey44":2cdo76br said:
Of course my goal when eating on a ski day is to getting something decent with a minimum of hassle and get back out on the hill. Lingering over a 5 star meal would make my brain explode.
That's just sad, yet typically northeastern.

So, I guess you spend the majority of your days skiing at deer valley? If not there there, then surely in Europe where the on mountain food is better? :roll: :roll: :roll:


Even if you're eating at the restaurants in the hotels at the base of AltaBird, you're not talking deer valley quality.
 
Marc_C":3gmy7s7v said:
That's just sad, yet typically northeastern.

He's just trolling ^^^, but it's typically North American. In the Alps, you'll always see Americans/Canadians scratching their heads about the extended lunches people take. After a couple days, you lose the I'm-wasting-precious-time mindset.

Haven't been there in a few years, but Le Massif has great cuisine -- they banned all fried foods, not for dietary reasons, but because they suck -- served in a cafeteria setup.

My problem with DV is the hundreds of condos lining the trails, like a golf course, which is more of a western resort thing. That said, it's got excellent tree skiing.
 
jamesdeluxe":6sabvep1 said:
My problem with DV is the hundreds of condos lining the trails, like a golf course, which is more of a western resort thing. That said, it's got excellent tree skiing.

That is true, but it's sorta like skiing through the middle of town, which is an alp thing... :wink: :wink:
 
rfarren":2fzrqnyp said:
That is true, but it's sorta like skiing through the middle of town, which is an alp thing... :wink: :wink:

Resorts in the French Alps -- many of which were built in the 60s and 70s -- have lots of monstrosities like that hotel going up in Deer Valley.

OTOH, in Austria, most of the ski areas were built on top of farming communities that had been there for hundreds of years and integrate well into the landscape. You'd never EVER see identikit condo bollox there, like at the PC resorts.
 
jamesdeluxe":1u5yoaw2 said:
OTOH, in Austria, most of the ski areas were built on top of farming communities that had been there for hundreds of years and integrate well into the landscape.

Ditto for Switzerland.
 
jamesdeluxe":2468jbmx said:
Marc_C":2468jbmx said:
That's just sad, yet typically northeastern.

He's just trolling ^^^, but it's typically North American. In the Alps, you'll always see Americans/Canadians scratching their heads about the extended lunches people take. After a couple days, you lose the I'm-wasting-precious-time mindset.
Of course it's a troll!
I agree with james about the alps. What I find curious is how many visitors display this I'm-wasting-time-at-lunch behavior, yet how few of them actually ski from 9:15-4:30. And how many of them need to take a "rest day" part way through their trip.

rfarren":2468jbmx said:
So, I guess you spend the majority of your days skiing at deer valley? If not there there, then surely in Europe where the on mountain food is better? :roll: :roll: :roll:
Even if you're eating at the restaurants in the hotels at the base of AltaBird, you're not talking deer valley quality.
No, you know I spend most of my days at AltaBird, but I certainly do wish the food was much closer to DV quality, especially since it's only marginally less expensive.

This season is a bit different though: having been laid off Thanksgiving week and currently out of work, most of my lunches have been sandwiches from home.
 
Marc_C":sxbk8zzr said:
I certainly do wish the food was much closer to DV quality, especially since it's only marginally less expensive.

The sad thing is, it's not.
 
Admin":i4ssobhv said:
Ditto for Switzerland.

I always fly into Zurich, but head straight to Austria, mostly because the ski areas there are less expensive. But I've got a big list of Swiss mountains I'd love to hit. As I mentioned in a thread a while back, aesthetics play as much of a role in the places I like to ski as the terrain and snow... that's why I'm hooked on Austria.

The French resorts are generally much higher, bigger, and reported to have better conditions/snow totals. But the thought of skiing into a French "village" like Les Menuires (even though it's supposed to have excellent and really extensive terrain) turns my stomach. The village of Chamonix looks nice from photos though and I'm sure there are many more.
 
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