Breckenridge, CO – I was wearing shorts, looking out my home office window at palm trees, when I made the call. “Breckenridge, last weekend of the season,” was all I had to say. I could already picture the scene at the opposite end of the phone line — a guy in business casual, sitting at a desk, the annoying hum of responsibility hanging in the air. “Let me think about it,” he said, and was gone.
|
Alpenglow bathes Peaks 10 and 9 at Breckenridge with the first rays of morning light. |
Right then and there, I started packing my bags.
You see, we live in Florida…on neighboring islands…surrounded by the Gulf of Mexico. On this day in mid-April, the temperature hovered in the 80s, and throngs of Spring Break co-eds had just left our beaches. Heck, my 6-year-old was already well into t-ball season. Yet on my calendar was a note that I simply could not avoid. And on the other end of that conversation was my good friend Marty Kullman, a guy who had just learned to ride while visiting my family during what we call our “bail on Florida and live in Utah” portion of the winter.
Within the hour, the phone was ringing. “I just found a flight to Denver that leaves at 7,” was all he had to say. “And I’m pulling the trigger.” Less than 24 hours later we’re sitting on the Colorado Super Chair, ascending Breck’s legendary Peak 8.
Other mountains offer steeper terrain. Other mountains have far less crowds. Other mountains may have even had better snow conditions the third weekend in April 2007. But when the opportunity comes to end the season with one last, fun weekend of riding in a season that you thought was history, for me, one resort comes to mind.
There’s just something about Breckenridge…
Changes In Latitude
|
Breckenridge’s terrain parks are legendary. |
Truth be told, there was something about Breckenridge at the beginning of the season, too. That’s when my wife and I pulled a similar last-minute escape, enjoying three days of Breck’s legendary slopes, all in the midst of the Chevrolet Grand Prix snowboard series. We thought the comp would make it a zoo. Instead, it was fun, carving up the mountain one minute, stopping at the pipe and watching the pros carve up the U-tube the next. In a way, it’s like paying homage to Breck’s legendary history. This was one of the first resorts to allow snowboarding. Today, it’s Freeway terrain park, with its oversized hits and 22-foot, Zaugg-cut Superpipe, is considered one of the best freestyle spots in the nation for boarders and two-plankers alike, home to everyone from legendary shredder Todd Richards to current X-Games defending pipe jock, Steve Fisher.
It’s one amazing playground, albeit one that, into my 40s and with three knee surgeries under my belt, we opt to take in only as spectators. On this bluebird April day, we roll up to the park like everyone else, and then join the crowd on the perimeter taking in the jaw-dropping action. My challenge is at the bottom, a kiddie — make that old-guy friendly — park known as Trygve’s. Here, I jump right to the front of the hesitant throngs eyeing the various hits, slide my low-level rails with authority, and claim at least a good 12 inches of air off a jump before throwing in a few steezy slashes on the lip of the pipe. Looking back at Marty as he ponders his first-ever rail, I almost want to thump my chest. That’s when the 7-year-old I probably just cut off frontside boardslides the flat box, spins a 180 on the rainbow rail, and pulls an effortless 360 off the jump where I just busted out my telephone-book size air. I tell him to enjoy his anterior cruciate ligaments while he’s young, he looks at me like I’m ancient, and we’re off.
|
Click image to open a full-size Breckenridge trail map in a new browser window. |
While the park area at Peak 8 may be legendary, Breckenridge obviously thinks it can get better. This season, the resort has instituted a “park-progression system” on the mountain that will retain the beginner park and pipe (I’m there dude!), add an intermediate park, while still showcase the expert-level park and pipe on Freeway. Aspiring riders will be able to comfortably feel out terrain park riding at Trygve’s, progress to the new intermediate area on Park Lane, and still be up close and personal to the pro-level action in Freeway. To facilitate the intermediate area, the resort has invested in a new snowmaking system that will be dedicated to the Park Lane run.
Peak 8, however, is not all rippers and shredders. It’s also a great all-around area as well, with a wonderful mix of greens and blues to skier’s right off the Colorado Super Chair. Head skier’s left and you’ll find a number of fun, if short, blacks. You can also access these directly from the Rocky Mountain Super Chair. In fact, on our first visit to Breckenridge, my wife and I rarely left this side of the mountain. It offers a mix of lengthy, playful runs that are almost always impeccably groomed. Heavily trafficked areas like Peak 8 can get quickly tracked out at most resorts; at Breckenridge, my last run was often almost as fun as the first.
Changes In Attitude
While Peak 8 may have been a playground to get the trip started, by afternoon we’ve made our way to Peak 9, where Marty is quickly learning to enjoy the wide expanse of blues. No less than four lifts unload close to the top of the mountain. But despite the area’s reputation as hosting Breck’s biggest crowds, we find lift lines surprisingly short. We lap the high-speed BeaverRun and Mercury Super Chairs most often, enjoying the lengthy Cashier, Bonanza, and Columbia runs, before moving over to the blue/black American and Peerless. As expected, the increased steepness is helping Marty’s riding truly begin to flow. As for me, the spring conditions are good for both my ego and knee, and in a year that offered precious few powder days, I’m having a banner weekend in the slop. The only hiccup comes when I lead us mistakenly down the aptly named Four O’Clock, attempting to work our way back over to Peak 8. By the time I realize the mistake, we’re a small neighborhood and forest away from the action. We sweat off a few pounds making our way back to the top of Trygve’s park.
For the unitiated, Breckenridge consists of primarily four peaks, numbered 7-10, with two distinct base areas at Peaks 8 and 9. Each offers the basic slopeside amenities, but only Peak 9 currently offers hotel-style lodging. On the drive up Ski Hill Road to Peak 8, you’ll find a more quaint collection of houses and condos. Where’s the pseudo-Alpine village that seems to be the cornerstone of every major ski area nowadays? It’s not there, at least not yet. Instead, Breckenridge offers a real-life town below, complete with an actual Main Street and lots of Colorado charm. Like many western towns, it was born out of the Gold Rush. Today, it’s the largest historic district in Colorado, and features nearly 80 restaurants and bars, nearly 200 shops, and a multitude of hotels, inns, condos, and bed and breakfasts. I know, my wife led us through most of it in December. With Marty, our treks into town have a little more purpose.
|
Breckenridge’s new BreckConnect gondola links the town with the ski area. |
The lack of any significant base area, however, poses a logistical challenge in crowded Summit County. As a result, Breckenridge underwent some big changes heading into the 2006/2007 season. Most significant is the new BreckConnect gondola that runs from the base of Peak 8 to the town below. (A Peak 7 station will be coming online in 2008/2009.) In the past, resort-run buses carried the vast hordes of visitors to the mountain. Today, the sleek new gondola whisks visitors from central parking areas just outside Main Street to the resort above in about seven minutes. In a year that has become almost a rallying call to acknowledge global warming, it’s estimated the gondola saved nearly 20,400 gallons of fuel.
We, too, do our part. Thanks to Breck’s amiable Communications honcho Nicky DeFord, we’re situated in The Great Divide Lodge, and enjoy the short walk to the high-speed Beaver Run quad. Life is good.
Rocky Mountain High
Or at least, was good. At nearly 10,000 feet at its base, Breckenridge is high. And by Day 3, Marty is feeling the effects. He starts mumbling about not seeing too clearly before breakfast. By the time we’re ready to gear up, he’s on the phone with his ophthalmologist. I express concern, offer a few well-chosen words of condolence when he says he doesn’t think he’ll be able to ride this morning, then leave him in time for first chair once I figure he’s not dying. Hey, a guy’s gotta have his priorities straight.
|
At 12,840 feet, Breckenridge’s Imperial Express chairlift is the highest ski lift in North America. |
Solo, I take advantage of the opportunity to hit Peak 10, and its fun variety of blacks. It has actually snowed overnight, and the opportunity to get fresh powder, no matter how thin, can’t be ignored. Things are very quiet on this side of the mountain, which leaves areas like the Burn, which drops to skier’s left off the Falcon Super Chair, relatively untouched. Breckenridge’s true steeps, however, are reserved for the summit of Peak 8, 400 acres of expert and intermediate terrain once solely reserved for hikers, but now reached by the new Imperial Express Super Chair. At 12,840 feet, this is the highest lift in North America, accessing the highest lift-served terrain. From the 12,998-foot summit, you can pick out Baldy Mountain, Quandary Peak, Ten Mile Range, Lake Dillon, and nearby Keystone. You can also drop into numerous bowls, one of which, Imperial Bowl, even provides plenty of mellow runs for intermediates who rarely get the chance to ski or ride an above-the-treeline bowl. USA TODAY has called the Imperial Express a “must-ski experience.” I call it the answer to all those who complain Breckenridge is just too mellow to be challenging.
Coming back down from the clouds I get a call from Marty, who’s feeling a lot better and doesn’t want to miss out on the last official day in both Breck’s — and our — season. We meet back up at the base of Peak 9, then spend the next several hours riding our favorite trails, dividing our time between the cruisers of Peak 9 and the park-heavy slopes of Peak 8. The Peak 8 Super Connect lift makes it possible, spanning the distance between the two areas in a timely manner.
For the sake of the story, we even venture over to Peak 7, which we find quiet and welcome. Unfortunately, we also find its collection of blues far too mild, and grow bored after only several runs. A great place to escape Breck’s crowds with the little ones, but on this final day of the season, not the place we want to waste precious time. We hone our rail skills during a few more runs on Peak 8, then make our way back across to Peak 9, where we close out this rapidly warming day in the sticky, wet snow, literally pond-skimming in the lift lines, and just generally doing what one does best in spring conditions – having fun.
Something Anything
So just what is it about Breckenridge? It’s everything. The variety of terrain spread out over 2200-plus acres; the impeccable grooming on intermediate and beginner runs; the thrilling bowls located above the treeline; the elite parks and skiers and riders who call it home.
|
The town of Breckenridge possesses a genuine Victorian charm that can’t be manufactured. |
Or maybe it’s just that Breckenridge is real. No one manufactured the town’s character. It’s been fine tuned through the years. It’s as much a part of the ski resort as the ski resort is part of the town. Beginning on Main Street, rising through the legendary parks and fun-filled cruisers, and topped with dramatic peaks and bowls, Breckenridge is the real thing.
Especially when you’ve got three final, unexpected days to play in the snow.
THE INSIDE SCOOP
Breckenridge is located a little over 100 miles from Denver International Airport. Take I-70 West to Highway 9 (Exit 203), and then head south through Frisco. Actually, pause in Frisco long enough to eat breakfast at the Butternut Café. Definitely worth the trip. Once in Breckenridge, you might want to turn in the rental car. Public transportation is free and convenient. Or, just walk. The central areas of the town are rather compact and easy to navigate.
To access the resort, grab the BreckConnect gondola to Peak 8. It will avoid the crowds that start the day at Peak 9, and from the Peak 8 base you can easily access all areas of the mountain thanks to Breck’s vast array of high-speed lifts.
On-hill eating? Check out the Bergenhof Restaurant at the base of Peak 8; it offers a good view of the Superpipe. The outdoor barbecue area at the base of Peak 9 is also hard to top on a sunny afternoon. At the top of the lifts, check out the Vista Haus on Peak 8, Peak 9 Restaurant, or Ten Mile Station.