Afriski, Lesotho, July 10, 2024

Tony Crocker

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My 7th ski continent has finally been achieved, but it was not without further glitches.

We had no problems with the driving Wednesday. The border crossing was colder than Monday at 25F but it warmed rapidly in the cloudless sky. Some Lesotho locals sharing the road:
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Frozen waterfalls near where the road was iced Monday:
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Partially frozen Malibamatso River at 8,300 feet:
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The road peaks out about 10,500 feet, which we reached about 9:45. From the western approach it was not obvious where Afriski was in the basin to our right. When road curled around to the east we got our first view.
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Zoomed view of lower area:
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The lowest snow in the pic serves a tubing park and the true beginner Poma. I only used that poma once as it stopped frequently as beginners fell. The 3 lower lifts are metal cable tows with a handle and Poma platter attached. These were somewhat of a PITA, but make sense for kids, who are the primary users. We were told at Moolsmanhoek that pre-pandemic Afriski had a strong business with families using it to teach their kids to ski before taking them to Northern destinations during summer school holidays.

Afriski’s arrival/setup process is currently very tedious. Before driving down to the resort there is a checkpoint where you go inside a building, pay a ~$5 per person entry fee, get a parking pass and an attendant opens a gate. View just past the gate:
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The parking is just to the left of the buildings at the bottom of the snow.
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Apartments off to the right are named for famous ski resorts.

We parked, booted up and walked to the nearest building, which is the rental shop. We were told to walk part of the road back to buy tickets at an office near the Sky Restaurant.
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This was despite Sky Restaurant still being closed from the COVID recession. In fairness it took about this long to find a ticket office at La Plagne in 2022.

Diagram of facilities:
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We walked back to the rental shop and got skis and poles. They brought me a pair of 150’s and I told them I usually ski 180’s. They gave me their longest ski, which was 174cm.

We had noticed right away that only the 3 rope tows were running, but not the T-bar. Upon being told the reason was wind, I suspected a midweek “money hold” and asked to see whoever was in charge. The operations people told me that it was an old lift that was vulnerable to cables derailing at a couple of towers, and that a violent event damaging that cable would shut it down for the rest of the season. They assured me that employees were present and that two of them were up the hill reporting wind speeds every 20 minutes. They were hopeful winds might let up sometime after noon.

So we finally got on the snow at 11AM, using the two upper Poma tows. Liz’ first run in Africa:
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And my 7th continent:

Liz was in her 2014 Aspen/Jim Lindsey boots and no surprise they began to annoy her riding those tows so after about 4 runs, she retired to the deck and lodge to wait for the T-bar.
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I was quite aware the T-bar might not open at all and that we might have to hike it later. So I decided to ski 1,000+ vertical on the tows, then wait with Liz for the T-bar. I skied 16 runs totaling 1,170 vertical by 12: 30.

There was some interesting décor in the Gondola Lodge.
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The Capitol Steps would appreciate the drink we ordered in honor of our home ski area.
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Amurula, by the way, is a tasty South African liqueur we had a couple of other times on the trip.

Liz taking a break from those Jim Lindsey boots:
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At 1:30 I found out that there was indeed a cable derailment. While they were trying to fix it we decided we should undertake the hike. Here I’m starting up just past the Poma tows.
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Liz farther up:
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Liz at the top of groomed snow:
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It was about 2:30. As noted before I’m now a slow hiker at 10,000 feet. The snow surface by the way was good manmade packed powder with minimal hard spots. Presumably the snow machines have been on at night in the recent cold weather.

While we were there employees came up in a snowmobile to inspect but weren’t there long.
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Then to our surprise skiers approached from above on the ungroomed.
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Liz and I greeted them.
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They were impressed with our grunt work. They said they were running a car shuttle and invited us to join for a run.

Liz skiing the T-bar run:
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And me:
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That run was 410 vertical.

It was a cozy car shuttle with 7 people in 3 seats.
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I'm on the other side of the stacked skis.

Unloading just a few hundred meters off the road:
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The top of the T-bar is in right background.

Here I’m even with the top unloading area:
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Looking down the top 200 vertical of the T-bar where Afriski has not yet made snow.
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I asked about that and got lots of info from Greg in the yellow jacket. He thinks they will eventually do it this season, but it’s a new ownership group. Afriski lost a couple of seasons to COVID, then had a ownership that didn’t get along well with the locals, thus resulting in last year’s closure. The new people are still shaking things out, as evidenced by the ticket logistics and the as yet incomplete snowmaking coverage.

Greg lives on a farm near Tiffendell, which has been closed since COVID. He said Tiffendell is completely covered with natural snow right now and also has some very challenging natural terrain. Unfortunately he agreed with me that the logistics of getting there will make it difficult to find a buyer to reopen it.

Looking back up at the uncovered slope:
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The grass hiking down reminded me of New Zealand tussocks.

Liz then I skiing the ungroomed snow:
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We cruised to the base, this run being 500 vertical. My total for the day was 2,080.

Driving out we closely inspected the top of the T-bar.
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In retrospect we could have spent the whole day doing car shuttles, as it’s that close. But we didn’t see this approaching from the opposite direction. We were also deterred by the gated checkpoints entering and exiting the resort. The gate guards knew our car shuttle hosts and waved them through easily.

At any rate, if anyone reading this is enough of a nutcase (Patrick?) to make this trip, you’ll know what to do.

The hairpin turns on the way back were still a challenge for some of the big trucks.
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I can't imagine spending time and money for such a visually unappealing experience.
As most of you now, this was one of the add-ons to a June Namibia safari Liz signed us up for 21 months ago. The planned 3-day add on was quite modest in cost, but increased to another two days and the airline change when weather did not cooperate.

I did suspect this was the way I would ski the 7th continent as the southern winter is high season for the southern Africa safari camps, and is really the only scenario for which I'd recommend this diversion. You have to go through Johannesburg to reach most of the safari camps, so marginal add-on cost is modest if you don't mind some adventurous driving on the other side of the road.

As for the "visually unappealing," that's the low Southern Hemisphere tree line due to native vegetation being subtropical. The altitude and climatology are very similar to where we viewed the April eclipse in Mexico. Recall that the 9,400 foot altitude radio tower in Mexico was thickly forested.
 
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As for the "visually unappealing," that's the low Southern Hemisphere tree line due to native vegetation being subtropical. The altitude and climatology are very similar to where we viewed the April eclipse in Mexico. Recall that the 9,400 foot altitude radio tower in Mexico was thickly forested.
Yeah, I was trying to think of somewhere in the USA that might be a little similar, maybe central Nevada?

Thanks for the report. How many paying customers do you think were there that day? Got to worry about the viability of the place.
 
Latitude 28.8 and mountainous: that’s Mexico more than US. And also the summer wet/winter dry climate.

Pre-pandemic Afriski was quite viable as training ground for kids according to our hosts at Moolsmanhoek. The poma tows were active all day Wednesday.

But obviously it’s 99+% internal tourism, which we heard several places is still depressed from the bad economy. That’s why I’m skeptical of Tiffendell reviving. AFAIK Afriski is the only lift service in Africa now. Oukaimeden in Morocco was at the epicenter of that devastating 2023 earthquake according to this Brittanica link.
 
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AFAIK Afriski is the only lift service in Africa now. Oukaimeden in Morocco was at the epicenter of that devastating 2022 earthquake.
Well there is lift served in Egypt. ;)
I didn't know that Morocco was down? Oukaimeden and Michlifen are no longer running lifts?

 
I didn't know that Morocco was down? Oukaimeden and Michlifen are no longer running lifts?
I'll leave it to you to provide any evidence that they are open. I saw no indication that Oukaimeden was open the season before the earthquake. Per skiresort.info Michlifen is smaller than Afriski ~500 vertical. Oukaimeden is 1,900 and would be quite legit if it had snow and operating lifts.

Egypt of course is indoors. I will admit that we skied more vertical indoors at SNO Oslo in 2022 than we did at Afriski.
 
I'll leave it to you to provide any evidence that they are open. I saw no indication that Oukaimeden was open the season before the earthquake. Per skiresort.info Michlifen is smaller than Afriski ~500 vertical. Oukaimeden is 1,900 and would be quite legit if it had snow and operating lifts.

Yes, not finding any recent information online, it’s all of couple of years old for both areas. Mind you prior to my visit to La Hoya (2008) and Los Penitentes (2009), there was also a serious lack of info.
 
I can't imagine spending time and money for such a visually unappealing experience.

I think it would be worthwhile for the experience. It's only a day.

Visually unappealing? Most early season Northeast skiing is exactly the same - except with a few more Maple trees.

I think Deer Valley's backside is also in the same boat (except they are trying to sell $1-10M condos and homes). It will often just be strips of snowmaking.
 
Visually unappealing? Most early season Northeast skiing is exactly the same - except with a few more Maple trees.
James is jaded on this subject since most of his skiing is in the Alps.
Skiing WRODs isn't my thing, in southern Africa, the Alps, the northeast, or elsewhere. I also wouldn't go indoor skiing even though I have a joint 25 minutes from me,. I'm not telling anyone that they're wrong for doing it; I'm just saying it ain't for me, especially when the setting reminds me of western Texas (Afriski)..
 
I have done plenty of it over the years. I never cared too much - just happy to see some snow on a mountainside
I've actually had a few decent WROD experiences, like when Slutsky-era Hunter used to bomb the hill in December.

Interesting you should mention that. Afriski is 28.8 latitude and 10,000 feet. Here's Big Bend National Park at 29.2 latitude and 7,000 feet:
You're being argumentative -- you know what I was referring to. I'd love to visit Big Bend.
 
I've actually had a few decent WROD experiences
I try to avoid them, but last Dec. 5 at Mt. High with basically two runs of 700 vertical and a 300 vertical beginner area below that was surprisingly pleasant. The keys are low marginal cost, convenience plus lack of crowds, a combination easier to arrange in retirement. I am likely to repeat this exercise at Mt. High to renew my senior pass.

Everyone knows why we went to Afriski. Jimmy Petterson sent me an ISHA article from 2020 which speculated that at that time only "several dozen" people had skied 7 continents. The article by Charlie Sanders, ski journalist and former NASJA president, recounts the history of both climbing and skiing 7 continents, culminating with Kit DesLauriers being the first person to ski the seven summits in 2006. Charlie Sanders' Antarctica trip was with Doug Stoup's Ice Axe Expeditions in 2016, and his son Jackson skied his 7th continent at age 19.

Most avid travelers will want to set foot on Antarctica from an expedition cruise. It did not occur to me before retirement that I could ski on such a trip until I read about the first 2009 Ice Axe cruise and so naturally signed up for the second one in 2011. It was Patrick who brought to my attention that I had one more continent to go. I did not set it as a high travel priority but when Liz wanted to spend the second half of June in Namibia, Afriski became irresistable.

For adventurous skiers the Ice Axe Antarctic trip should be a priority in its own right regardless of how many other continents you have skied. The only deterrent is price, which has more than doubled since 2011. It's hard for me to believe that ChrisC won't do it sometime.
 
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