Aletsch Arena, CH: 02/03/22

jamesdeluxe

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After four days with mostly nice weather here in the Valais region, a wet, blustery storm came through on Wednesday so instead of skiing through poor visibility, I stayed in the town of Brig, hung out in a cafe, bought groceries at Lidl, and took it easy. Since last weekend, Fraser at Weather to Ski had been pointing to Thursday as my only chance of powder on this trip and it panned out as advertised. I woke up to clear skies and the Aletsch Arena's Gazex exploders booming in the distance.

15-20 inches of new snow were waiting when I got out of the Riederalp gondola from the valley:
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At the top, I asked a small group of locals who were farming both sides of the 1,200-vert Hohfluh chair if I could join them:
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The snow was neither champagne nor concrete and stiffening up a bit as the morning progressed so the group was moving with an almost American sense of urgency.
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Around 11 am, the locals headed back to the valley so I started out on an end-to-end tour of the circuit:
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At 65 miles (104 km) of marked trails and a little under six miles wide, it's considered on the smaller end of the Alps' interconnected circuits. On either end are two independent ski areas, Belalp and Bellwald:
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There was plenty of fresh snow along the sides of the trail:
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At the top of Bettmeralp, dozens of people were taking photos of the Alps' largest glacier:
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Here's a Wikipedia pic that shows more of the glacier:
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It's the resort's one superlative so they remind you of it in signage all over the circuit:
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After skiing down to the village, a ski instructor with a group of little kids asked me to chaperone them on the lift:
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I made it to the far looker's right, Fiescheralp, around 1 pm, had lunch, and did a bunch of runs there. It's certainly the Aletsch Arena's best terrain sector:
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At 2:30, it was time to head back so I took some of the many "autobahns" that move you horizontally across the circuit:
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In summary: gorgeous views, fantastic conditions, and cute villages; however, I have to agree with the criticisms from Alpinforum -- the circuit is very oddly laid out with 2/3 of it having short verticals and criss-crossed by trails resulting in a lot of coasting rather than actually skiing. Only the far looker's right, Fiescheralp, had the terrain I was expecting.
 
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stunning
like i have said on other forums, low pressure and chill vibe on a powder day..Just like skiing in LCC...
 
That glacier is on the backside of the Jungfrau. I think you can ski some of it from there with guides.
 
Yes it is. On the north side of that ridge is the famous Eiger, which is essentially vertical for 5,000+ feet.

Nonetheless I'm very curious why that glacier is bigger than the ones on Mont Blanc, which is higher and more to the NW edge of the Alps that gets more precipitation.
 
I'm very curious why that glacier is bigger than the ones on Mont Blanc, which is higher and more to the NW edge of the Alps that gets more precipitation.
That would be my assumption as well; however, no one over there questions that Aletsch Glacier is the largest.
 
Yes it is. On the north side of that ridge is the famous Eiger, which is essentially vertical for 5,000+ feet.

Nonetheless I'm very curious why that glacier is bigger than the ones on Mont Blanc, which is higher and more to the NW edge of the Alps that gets more precipitation.
There's that too. I didn't even know that glaciers existed on anything but (primarily) north facing slopes in the Northern Hemisphere.
 
A final bit of travelogue from the trip, which will probably be old hat for Euro road warriors; however, it was a new experience for me.

In my first report from this trip, Rothwald, I mentioned driving over the Simplon Pass into Switzerland and that I wouldn't want to negotiate the tight/steep switchbacks during challenging road conditions. For the drive back to Milan, I bought a ticket on the Autoverlad -- the auto train that takes passenger cars through a tunnel to the other side of the pass in 20 minutes. It's a no-brainer if significant snow is in the forecast and even if it isn't, I'm a bit of a train geek so it seemed worth the one-way fare, $22.
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Here's the train arriving from Iselle, the Italian station on the other side of the pass:
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After the train stops, the conductor gets out, pulls down the metal barrier, and off you go:
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A few minutes later, I joined 15 other cars; I was second from the front. You move up within ten feet of the next car, engage the parking brake, and that's it -- there are no instructions/you're expected not to do anything stupid while in the tunnel. I'm sure that a U.S.-version would feature a ten-page-long waiver of liability form for the railroad.
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As you can imagine, most of the 20-minute ride is in pitch-black darkness; however, there are a couple spots with lights:
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On the Italian side, there were no clouds:
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90 seconds after the train stops, you're back on the Italian autostrada. Using the Autoverlad as a means of transport robs you of the incredible mountain vistas; however, it cuts 40 minutes off the travel time and takes carsickness from all the switchbacks off the table.
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A final bit of travelogue from the trip, which will probably be old hat for Euro road warriors; however, it was a new experience for me.

In my first report from this trip, Rothwald, I mentioned driving over the Simplon Pass into Switzerland and that I wouldn't want to negotiate the tight/steep switchbacks during challenging road conditions. For the drive back to Milan, I bought a ticket on the Autoverlad -- the auto train that takes passenger cars through a tunnel to the other side of the pass in 20 minutes. It's a no-brainer if significant snow is in the forecast and even if it isn't, I'm a bit of a train geek so it seemed worth the one-way fare, $22.
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I have done the following Swizz train tunnels:
1. Furka-Basistunnel train
2. Lötschberg Tunnel train

You are really forced to take one if driving from Zurich to Zermatt - interesting creations.


Did you ever consider skiing Saas-Fee for a day up from Brig? Super scenic, but really only medium-sized (due to glacier placement).
 
Does Aletsch have a decent lodging footprint at the top of their valley access lifts? I was not aware of the resort when driving to Zermatt years ago and did not always see a huge bed base down in the valley.
 
Does Aletsch have a decent lodging footprint at the top of their valley access lifts? I was not aware of the resort when driving to Zermatt years ago and did not always see a huge bed base down in the valley.
Correct: lodging-wise, everything is at the top of the valley access gondolas. Bettmeralp, the middle of the three base villages, gets a positive review from Fraser at Weather to Ski: "Bettmeralp is where I would stay – a gorgeous village with some quirky hotels."
 
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