Canadian Dirtbag Tour - March 2008

yak

New member
I’ve been procrastinating all spring and summer on uploading all my pictures and getting this post together. Now that I managed to crack a couple ribs at the Kingdom Trails, I suddenly have time for other things.

Me and five college buddies set out on the Great Canadian Dirtbag Tour on March 1st. Well, at least we all tried to. Ziggy and Bill were flying in from Vail, I from Boston, arriving Calgary in the early afternoon. Chris, Pat and Vic were flying in from NYC. When we originally found out that they were arriving at 11 pm, we all gave them a collective WTF! So they decided to try and fly standby so they could arrive earlier and get to Banff the same night like the rest of us were planning.

I met Ziggy and Bill in Calgary, and we drove to Banff and checked into our one-night stand (which would become the norm for a while). After dinner I got a message from Chris that while they were able to fly standby on their first leg, they were not able to get out of Minneapolis early on the second flight, so they had 9 hours to kill in the Twin Cities, most of which was spent at one or more bars. When the time came to board the plane, the gate agent told Pat that his passport was expired and he couldn’t board the plane. The three of them (further referred hereto to as the “domestic team”, decided to stick together and spent the night there.

The domestic team eventually re-routed to Vail, where they don need no steenkin passports. Vic’s dad has a place at the Beav, and they had nice day or two skiing before they all got the flu. Ziggy had decided that the International team would maintain radio silence with the Domestic team, so I occasionally send a “wish you were here” text message or a picture, but that was all.

First up on our loose itinerary - Lake Louise on a Saturday.

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They had received about 4 inches of fresh the day before (and this would become thee theme of our trip – a day late, but not necessarily a dollar short). At Louise most of the snow seemed to have blow into the back chutes, where it was 6 inches or more deep. All the Louise pictures are from my iPhone, so they kind suck even after tweeking them with iPhoto.

Zig and Bill in one of the back chutes

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Zig entering another

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A flew slides on the lower flanks

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Zig in the slop

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Me with the chutes in the background

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After the prerequisite happy hour at the base lodge, we set out for our next stop.

Kicking Horse

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We had a luxurious triple suite

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The Horse had the same deal, freshies the day before, but we made the best of it and found some untracked here and there.

Zig on the frontside

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Me on the ridge under the gondi

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Checking our the tote board

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Ziggy somewhere under the White Wall

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The wall over my shoulder

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Not a bad day, and a great happy hour, too. Then it was time to hit the road.

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Next stop, the Stoke

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We awoke to about 6 inches of fresh in the valley – woo hoo.

The access road shows a little gnar here and there

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There were cranes building a village way down below. The base lodge at the gondi was small but adequate

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They even have a fatty wagon carpet ride so you don‘t have to slog up the hill. (We rode it, of course).

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The old chairlift was still in place.

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I didn’t get any action shots that day, because one, it was a powder day and we were busy getting down on it, and two, it was a foggy powder day so you could barely see where you were going. Zig and I left our avy gear in the car, so we only ventured a little bit behind the ropes into North Bowl for a run or two, even then I wasn’t all that comfy because you couldn’t see above, but the locals were all shredding it so we decided to do it.

The Stoke looks like it will be a bitching place when they build our the rest of the lift system. The lower gondi has some sick faces under it too. It makes a nice last run of the day (all 3000 vertical feet).

Apres at the Stoke was in the parking lot

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We stayed another night in Revelstoke, and in the morning decided it was time to hit the road again.

The road looked promising

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We were heading way south to Red, which means we had to take a ferry across a lake.

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The truckers told us that there’s a cougar that lives on the peninsula next to the ferry ramp. In the quiet hours, deer come out on the road to lick the salt that falls off the waiting trucks, and they watched it take one. We thought they were telling us stories until we saw this in the snow:

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More shots while waiting for the ferry

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Finally reached the other side, and had to drive through a few avy zones.

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Red was more of the same, seeking out powder and chutes

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Red had a very cheap happy hour in the base lodge, then we drove to Cranbrook and holed up in yet another cheap motel for the night. Morning came and it was on to Fernie.

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Some inbounds avy evidence

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Bill ready to go fishing

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The picture says it all

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There’s a couple ladders hidden in there

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Looking to poach some fresh (or the next best thing)

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Early hazards still existed

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Zig in FishBowl

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Fishbowl

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Hiking out

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An unorthodox way of keeping snow on the chutes. You had to sideslip or step down over it.

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mo chutes

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Jack getting a little pow

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A gnarly salt n pepper entrance

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Zig in the pepper

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Fresh slides appeared across this inbounds traverse

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Finally, us high plains drifters headed for the barn

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The barn

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Not a super snowy week, but we made the best of it and have some great stories to tell the domestic team!
 
Nice!!! But, but but...you headed over Crowsnest and didn't go to Castle Mt.??? :shock:
 
Can't do it all, man. (Well, you CAN, but you might not have a job or a family when you're done). We opted out of Whitewater, too, as Bill didn't have BC gear.
 
Admin beat me to the obvious comment about Castle Mt.

Nonetheless, if you want an ambitious but cheap road trip with very high quality skiing, this post provides great documentation. Patrick, who is currently involved in a more expensive but masochistic exercise, should take note. By the way, don't even think about trying to do this trip on public transit. In 2002 Garry Klassen broke his tibia at Kicking Horse and thus was not able to pick me up in Nakusp (south of the Galena Ferry pictured in this post). So it cost me $100 for a ride to Revelstoke, then a 11PM-2:30AM bus to Golden/Kicking Horse. :x I'm sure Patrick can relate. :P

This is not the usual "Calgary loop" itinerary. Stretch it west to Revelstoke, then down to Red/Whitewater, and it's a hell of a lot of driving, especially with only one day at each place. But with 3 drivers it looks like they got a good overview of many fine ski areas.
 
Ya, I didn't really talk about the driving - there was lots of it. We tried to do most of it after skiing. The worst was Revelstoke to Red. We arrived at the ferry dock right before the hazardous cargo trip, so we had to wait for another ferry cycle. We ended up skiing just an afternoon at Red. But we skiied 2 1/2 days at Fernie - which is all the more reason to spend a day at Castle (next time).
 
In January 2005 two of us got off the hill about 2PM at Kicking Horse and drove to Red (via Cranbook/Kootenay Pass) in 7.5 hours I think.

Skiers going through Fernie/Castle should keep an eye on weather/conditions and be flexible. Those pics from Fernie look really good. I've had 4 days at Fernie. 2 of them were puking snow, great powder but bad vis and not that easy to get around. The other two days had been preceded by lower mountain rain events, so the only good off-piste was running laps on White Pass and the upper half of Currie. Just luck of the draw. As most of you know my 4 days at Castle have ranged from merely above average to stellar.
 
Nice TR.

That's always the question when you fly across the continent -- stay at one place and get to know it better or check out a couple other nearby mountains. And then there's Yak and his crew. :-" Damn, that's a lot of driving.

When I did my Calgary loop a year ago, I really wanted to go to Castle, but figured (correctly, it turned out) that Sunshine and Louise would keep me busy for most of the week.
 
The more normal Calgary loop, going no farther west than Kicking Horse or Panorama, is not that taxing.
March 1999: Skiing Castle, Fernie, RK, 2x Louise, 2 x Sunshine. Lodging Pincher Creek, Fernie, 2 nights Fairmont Hot Springs, 3 at Lake Louise. Max driving in one day was less than 3 hours.
February 2004: Skiing Castle, 3x Island Lake, Fernie, Panorama, Lake Louise, Sunshine. Lodging Pincher Creek, 3 Island Lake, Fernie, 2 Canmore. Max driving day was 2+ hours Fernie to Panorama, ski, then 2+ hours more to Canmore.

Red & Whitewater are best approached from Spokane, which can also have competitive airfare since Southwest flies there. Fernie and Schweitzer can easily be added to that itinerary, which was was my first trip up there in 1997.

Revelstoke is most accessible from Kelowna or Kamloops. I'll probably come from that direction to Kicking Horse/Chatter Creek in 2009.

If you combine more than one of the 3 general regions above, much of the driving will be quite lengthy. I've done some marathons, like Calgary-Jasper-Blue River (Wiegele) in 2006. And the ill-timed 2005 trip out of Spokane, when we wound up at Kicking Horse and Lake Louise to ski some snow that had not been rained upon :x .
 
Tony Crocker":1e92i7hn said:
Admin beat me to the obvious comment about Castle Mt.

I guess I'm really really late here, so I won't mention it. :-"

Cool TR and road trip. You got MadPat's seal of approval. =D>

Tony Crocker":1e92i7hn said:
Nonetheless, if you want an ambitious but cheap road trip with very high quality skiing, this post provides great documentation. Patrick, who is currently involved in a more expensive but masochistic exercise, should take note.

As you recall Tony, this trip was in the card for me in 07, but I had to bail.

Tony Crocker":1e92i7hn said:
Patrick, who is currently involved in a more expensive but masochistic exercise, should take note. By the way, don't even think about trying to do this trip on public transit.

Sorry to hijacked this, but Tony brought it up. Analogy with my SA trip and this are totally irrelevant, especially the fact that I was traveling solo versus their group. Using an NA template on experience and knowledge for a trip doesn't necessarily translate well into SA. I have rented cars for some of my trips (solo or not), but in some cases (Alps or SA), a car rental isn't always the best option.
 
The car rental decision depends upon the particular region/ski area(s) in question. If you're going to one big place (Las Lenas being the obvious example in SA) it's not necessary. If you're hitting multiple places, especially if conditions are variable and last minute decisions can enhance your ski experience, then the car rental is a good idea.

I do know that border crossings, especially one way, are often not practical or even allowed. But once Patrick got into the Argentine Lake District, with 4 ski areas within 150-200 mile radius, I think the rental car was an obvious choice. And if price is an issue, don't take a trip like that without a ski partner to share transportation and lodging costs. Solo, the package tour option is also more attractive.

Interior BC ski area hopping, with remote locations and considerable distances, virtually mandate a car rental. Also, interior BC is a sensible choice for a "dirtbag tour," while South America is not IMHO.
 
Tony Crocker":3a4alnsn said:
If you're hitting multiple places, especially if conditions are variable and last minute decisions can enhance your ski experience, then the car rental is a good idea.

I do know that border crossings, especially one way, are often not practical or even allowed. But once Patrick got into the Argentine Lake District, with 4 ski areas within 150-200 mile radius, I think the rental car was an obvious choice.[/quote]

That was the route I was learning toward until I heard underwise. Bus in SA are cheap and comfortable. The cost of gas alone for driving from Bariloche-Esquel (400km) was probably way more expensive than a price of a bus ticket (43 pesos / approx $14 US).

Tony Crocker":3a4alnsn said:
And if price is an issue, don't take a trip like that without a ski partner to share transportation and lodging costs. Solo, the package tour option is also more attractive.

I agree about your FF points analogy, where is the biggest bang for the buck? The same applies here.
Tony Crocker":3a4alnsn said:
Interior BC ski area hopping, with remote locations and considerable distances, virtually mandate a car rental. Also, interior BC is a sensible choice for a "dirtbag tour," while South America is not IMHO.

I agree with your car rental observation in the BC interior. Regarding dirtbag options; at an average cost of $65/day for my 10 days in Argentina (lodging, skiing 6 days, buses on thousands of kms, taxis, food, ski repair, some beer). That can't be that bad, right? If you really want to dirtbag, head into Bari or Esquel and don't hop like I did.
 
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