Engelberg, CH: 03/09/25

jamesdeluxe

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As this high-pressure system continues, I had to make up my mind whether to hit another big name in the Swiss skiing pantheon despite the lack of recent snow. I decided to go ahead with it because the following two days will likely have some level of cloud cover.

Composed of the renowned Titlis and Jochpass sectors along with a separate much smaller sector, Brunni, I knew going in that this is not a mountain where you go to ski groomed trails. That said; I saw a handful of guided groups venturing into the extensive north-facing offpiste, which included ski tracks in major DFU zones

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Onpiste was, all things considered, in good shape so I started my survey at Jochpass on the skier's far right:
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Then moved over to Titlis via a connecting lift, which made the area feel a bit disjointed. In three hours, I covered pretty much all of the often steep groomed terrain, where many of the reds would be black at other places.
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I did get to do one intermediate offpiste run below the Titlis summit with a father and his 14-year-old daughter through baby bumps covered with chalky snow. I went back and did it again; however, I didn't feel comfortable venturing off by myself.

Here's the iconic Titlis Rotair tram, billed as the "the world's first revolving aerial cableway," getting ready to dock.
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I wondered about the accuracy of this claim as you may recall that during an arrival-day snowstorm nine years ago, I rode on what was billed as the first rotating gondola at a locals area Hochstuckli (scroll halfway down). I guess that both superlatives are true if you're talking about a cablecar/tram vs. a gondola.
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On the 3000m summit of Titlis is a five-story lodge with several attractions including a "glacier igloo," where you walked on what felt like freshly zamboni-ed ice, which was especially challenging in ski boots. The only warning was an "Achtung: Danger of Slipping!" sign. In the U.S., they would've made you sign a waiver of responsibility or just covered it with a rubber mat.
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Around 2:30 pm, I downloaded and took the bus to the Brunni tram, where I hoped to ski a bit of south-facing terrain, ride what's billed as the steepest surface lift in Switzerland, and then sit back with a beer in the sun. By the time I got there at 3 pm, they'd just shut down the tram for the rest of the afternoon due to the strong föhn wind and I was forced to call it a day.

Similar to Andermatt, this was another instance of a "world-class ski area" under less than ideal conditions. I'm sure that a guide may have made it more interesting but without fresh snow in many moons, it didn't seem worth the investment. Still, it was a gorgeous sunny day amongst my people (my brother in Denver jokingly refers to anyone who speaks German and French as "my people") with perfect early-spring temps and I got to see why Engelberg is such a highly-rated expert ski area.
 
The Laub and the shorter off piste sectors from Jochpass are doable without a guide. You could have schmoozed some chairlift companions.

How far down did direct north facing retain winter snow?
 
The Laub and the shorter off piste sectors from Jochpass are doable without a guide. You could have schmoozed some chairlift companions.
No one was skiing offpiste other than the aforementioned handful of guided groups. That's why I was lucky to be on the transfer lift with the father and daughter; however, I can't tell you how difficult the Swiss German dialect is to follow when they're speaking amongst themselves. It's virtually a different language and I'm lucky to understand 25% of it, if that. They can go into more standard German (albeit with a Swiss accent) when speaking with non-residents. The only reason I was able to butt into their conversation is that the daughter pointed below and I heard the word "offpiste."

How far down did direct north facing retain winter snow?
I only went into the ungroomed well to the upper looker's left of the Rotair tram and it was definitely winter snow. I can't speak to below it.
 
The Laub is one of the greatest ski runs in the world, close to 4,000 vertical, exact north facing and continuously pitched like Jackson's Hobacks. And access is via a trivial traverse skier's right around a corner off the Laubersgrat lift.
 
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