July 5, 1997, Gladstone Peak (San Miguel Mountains), Colorado
2 climbers caught, 1 injured, 1 partly buried and killed
Accident Summary
Gladstone Peak (13,913 feet) is a spectacular looking peak located between it two more famous 14'er neighbors Mt. Wilson and Wilson Peak. At about 1400 hours on Saturday afternoon two Colorado climbers were caught by a natural wet-slab avalanche high on Gladstone Peak. The pair were traversing a snowfield about 100 feet below the summit when they triggered the avalanche. Details are still sketchy, however, it appears the pair were on a small rock ledge that crumbled beneath them triggering a small wet-slab avalanche. One man was carried a very short distance but suffered only cuts and bruises. The other victim, a 23-year-old Castle Rock man was carried about 150-200 vertical feet and partly buried. He apparently died from serious head injuries suffered during his short ride. He was not wearing a helmet. Two other friends were on the ridge above the pair but did not see the avalanche. They only learned of the tragedy when the one slightly injured climber was able to scramble back to the ridge. Not equipped for steep snow travel the three were unable to descend to their friend, so they left to get help. At a campgroundlower on the mountain they borrowed a cellular telephone to alert the San Miguel Sheriff's Department. A rapid response got rescuers to the victim by about 1700 hours. They then evacuated the body.
Avalanche Data
This avalanche can be classified as a WS-AF-2-G. This small-sized wet slab fractured 2.5 to 3 feet deep to the ground and was only about 30-40 feet wide. It was artifically triggered by the weight of the climbers and rocks. The steep snow slope faces to the northeast, and the avalanche released from about an elevation of 13,800 feet. Rescuers said the day was hot and added that the snow was very wet. They also said the avalanche entrained considerable amounts of dirt and rock, typical of summertime avalanches.
Comments
Falling rock and avalanches are certainly among the dangers climbers face when tackling the rugged and rotten summits of the San Miguel Mountains. Though this group suffered bad luck their accident was typical of many that occur in the mountains. Warm temperatures, late afternoons, rotten rock, shallow wet snow and steep slopes are key ingredients to rock fall and avalanches. Add to this list the group's inexperience, lack of proper equipment and poor decision-making and you have the recipe for disaster. Sadly, these ingredients came together on Gladstone Peak. This accident is a grim reminder that even in summer avalanches can still threaten the visitors to steep, high-elevation slopes.
The last Colorado avalanche victim killed during July occurred on July 4, 1976, on Mt. Ypsilon. Though that accident was unwitnessed the avalanche is suspected to have been caused when a portion of the cornice collapsed onto the steep snow slope the victim was climbing. The following year on July 3, 1977, two climbers were caught and injured, also on Mt. Ypsilon when a huge portion of cornice collapsed above them.