(Non-skiing) Backpacking Henry's Fork, Uinta Mountains, Utah

Admin

Administrator
Staff member
I called my buddy Todd on Friday evening with a last minute idea. It reached 103ºF on Friday and threatened to hover near the 100-degree mark all weekend. I wanted to get out of Dodge, and Todd agreed.

By Saturday morning we were speeding eastbound on I-80. We've of course been backpacking in the Uintas many times, most often in the western end of the range where the Mirror Lake Highway (UT-150) winds from Kamas to Evanston, Wyo., reaching nearly 11,000 feet at Bald Mountain Pass. It's the only road to traverse the Uintas.

There are, however, other approaches as well. We've headed in once from the south, visiting the Grandaddy Lakes. We've never, however, come in via the North Slope from Wyoming. That's the way to reach the Henry's Fork Trailhead, the shortest route to Kings Peak, which at 13,589 feet is the highest point in Utah. You'd think, therefore, that Henry's Fork would be busy but compared with trailheads along the Mirror Lake Highway, it's remarkably quiet.

The North Slope gently ascends from the Bridger Valley of southwestern Wyoming through thick conifer forests, a marked departure from the arid Mirror Lake Highway heading eastbound from Kamas.

16 uintas north slope dahlgren creek 100718.jpg


We reached the trailhead by 12:30 p.m., booted up and hit the trail, which enters the High Uintas Wilderness Area and follows the tumbling Henry's Fork as it drains some of the highest peaks in the range and carries the water all the way to the Green River in Flaming Gorge.

01 uintas todd henrys fork 100717.jpg


02 uintas henrys fork 100717.jpg


The sound of the bubbling brook was relaxing, which was just the ticket after a hellish week of work. Numerous parties passed us heading out. Too many, it seemed, for the few cars in the parking lot, but it only made sense that folks were heading home on Saturday, for this is Utah after all.

Sprinkles and for a moment a light shower drizzled on us as we hiked in. Temperatures hovered around 70, a marked departure from the blazing heat in the nearby Salt Lake Valley. By the time we reached Elkhorn Meadow, the skies parted sufficiently to grant us our first glimpse of the Kings Peak summit.

03 uintas kings peak 100717.jpg


04 uintas unnamed peak head of henrys fork 100717.jpg


From Elkhorn Meadow, we branched west-southwest to ascend the west side of the valley. After a bit of climbing (we were beat after seven miles with full gear!), we bushwhacked cross-country to reach Bear Lake, which we had all to ourselves.

05 uintas bear lk 100717.jpg


We set camp, but shortly thereafter found a far superior campsite, superior enough to pull up stakes and move.

06 uintas bear lk camp todd 100717.jpg


07 uintas bear lk camp hammock 100717.jpg


After dinner I fished a bit, unsuccessfully, and played spades, and truly had my butt handed to me.

I had a restless, sleepless night. I'd brought the Bear Burrito again, but failed to realize that temperatures would dip into the 40s overnight. Frankly, I froze. With no sleeping pad, and only cold air beneath, the insulation in the sleeping bag compresses underneath your weight and provides no warmth whatsoever. I'd change position to let a different side chill, drift off to sleep, and awaken 15-30 minutes later uncomfortably cold. I'd repeat the process all night.

Note to self: don't bring the hammock tent if temps will dip below 50-55 overnight.

I began to sleep better once the sun broke over the horizon, so I didn't climb out of bed until 9:30 a.m.

08 uintas beark lk 100718.jpg


09 uintas bear lk todd filtering 100718.jpg


We cooked breakfast, broke camp, and bushwhacked downstream to Sawmill Lake, finding the remnants of its namesake steam-powered sawmill beyond the far shore.

10 uintas sawmill lk 100718.jpg


11 uintas sawmill 100718.jpg


12 uintas sawmill 100718.jpg


13 uintas sawmill steam engine 100718.jpg


14 uintas henrys fork elkhorn meadow 100718.jpg


15 uintas henrys fork snow gauge 100718.jpg


We plugged along to get back, pausing for a ramen noodle lunch beside Henry's Fork before reaching the truck at 2:45 p.m. today, over 14 miles after we started. Unlike Saturday, we only saw 4 other parties between camp and the truck.

For anyone interested in knowing more about this area, here's a Google Earth file with our track and photos included in the location where each photo was taken:

View attachment Bear Lake.kmz
 
jamesdeluxe":3hhtxd5l said:
Nice to see you not going to the same place over and over. :-D

Cute. :lol:

Unlike skiing, where I believe intimate local knowledge is a distinct asset, for summer activities I'm usually in full-on exploration mode. I'd rather not visit the same place twice as there's too much around here to discover. The exception to this rule is paddling, for there are precious few flat bodies of water around here that are sufficiently large and interesting enough to warrant a weekend of kayak camping.

And as for skiing, I'm still discovering lift-served places in Little Cottonwood Canyon that are new to me. The most recent example of this would be Comma Chute near the end of this past season.

Also, I don't know how I forgot to mention it as I'm still scratching my welts, but for anyone nearby contemplating a trip to the Uintas anytime soon, bring your DEET! Anything less than 100% isn't strong enough. They're both ferocious and plentiful right now. On the first mile of our hike, in the middle of the day I got eaten alive before I broke out the Ben's. After that they were just a nuisance, swarming around me but not biting thanks to the DEET.
 
Admin,

Next time let me know and if im not using it you can borrow my hennessy. I outfitted it with all the extras. Undercover and sleeping pad. This should keep you plenty warm.

Glad to see you've gotten over the claustrophobia issues.

Ill be ready soon.

M
 
Skidog":199n1nik said:
Glad to see you've gotten over the claustrophobia issues.

Not entirely. However, I've found that by keeping the edges of the fly higher the increased visibility from within the hammock lessens those issues. Should there be a wind-driven rain the edges can simply be dropped lower for the duration of that event.

Thanks for the offer! Hang in there and heal quickly.
 
Marc -

Have you seen any data from that snow gauge? I always wondered what snowfall/snowpack looked like in the high Uintas seeing as how they are somewhat shadowed by the Wasatch. Given the lushness of your surroundings on the approach, it seems that they do pretty well from a moisture perspective.
 
Mike Bernstein":3jqmyn20 said:
Marc -

Have you seen any data from that snow gauge? I always wondered what snowfall/snowpack looked like in the high Uintas seeing as how they are somewhat shadowed by the Wasatch. Given the lushness of your surroundings on the approach, it seems that they do pretty well from a moisture perspective.

They do. If lushness is the indicator then they get more moisture than the Wasatch. That's entirely possible, especially because they get thunderstorms nearly every afternoon all summer that you can set your watch to. It's far less regular in the Wasatch outside of winter.

I haven't seen the readings, although you may find something on MesoWest http://mesowest.utah.edu/ or a similar network. Keep in mind, though, that they don't read that gauge regularly in the traditional sense. According to a paper attached to the gauge they fly over at low altitude 3 times per winter and estimate snow depth based on the number of orange bars appearing at the base. At the end of the rainy season they measure the rain gauge once.
 
Admin":ln3v6zyj said:
Skidog":ln3v6zyj said:
Glad to see you've gotten over the claustrophobia issues.

Not entirely. However, I've found that by keeping the edges of the fly higher the increased visibility from within the hammock lessens those issues. Should there be a wind-driven rain the edges can simply be dropped lower for the duration of that event.

Thanks for the offer! Hang in there and heal quickly.


Ill be ready id say in 2 weeks time.

M
 
Skidog":2fselsw9 said:
Ill be ready id say in 2 weeks time.

I admire your enthusiasm. Given the invasiveness of that surgery, that would be remarkable.
 
Admin":3leaxhne said:
Skidog":3leaxhne said:
Ill be ready id say in 2 weeks time.

I admire your enthusiasm. Given the invasiveness of that surgery, that would be remarkable.

Like i said in the email to you last night....

Physical therapist gave me the ok to go backpacking. His suggestion, obviously, was to do a day hike with a pack and see if I could handle it. This is the type thing he wants me to do BEFORE we are through so we can see how its progressing.

I was really worried about the recovery time on this operation, but wow am i surprised at how i've snapped back so quickly.

Looking forward to getting back into the mtns before the snow flies again.

M
 
admin":p5e7fwp9 said:
If lushness is the indicator then they get more moisture than the Wasatch. That's entirely possible, especially because they get thunderstorms nearly every afternoon all summer that you can set your watch to. It's far less regular in the Wasatch outside of winter.
We've heard EMSC make similar comments about the regularity of summer afternoon thundershowers in Colorado many times. As we know this does NOT translate to more winter precipitation. IIRC admin scounted the Uintas for late spring/early summer snowpack in 2005 and found it to be much less than in the Wasatch.
 
Tony Crocker":30ti85lb said:
IIRC admin scounted the Uintas for late spring/early summer snowpack in 2005 and found it to be much less than in the Wasatch.

And you're well aware that one observation does not a pattern make. I can't speak to whether it gets more, less or the same.
 
With regard to winter, logic strongly points to less precipitation than the Wasatch.
1) Uintas are leeward of the Wasatch
2) East-West orientation means less orographic uplift on prevailing west-to-east storm tracks.

Even if precip were the same Uintas would rate to have lower water content snow and thus a less durable snowpack.
 
Back
Top