Ski wax - to scrape or not to scrape

[kenargo@verizon.net]

I have a question about ski wax application. I try and add many coats of wax in between ski outings. My understanding of P-tex is that it absorbs wax as it cools. My question; should I scrape excess wax off in between coats or just reheat and add wax as it absorbs. At the moment I do not scrape; I heat and add more wax every couple of heatings (as the wax layer gets thin; from soaking in I am guessing).

 

[Admin]

I have a question about ski wax application. I try and add many coats of wax in between ski outings. My understanding of P-tex is that it absorbs wax as it cools. My question; should I scrape excess wax off in between coats or just reheat and add wax as it absorbs. At the moment I do not scrape; I heat and add more wax every couple of heatings (as the wax layer gets thin; from soaking in I am guessing).

It's only the pores in the p-tex that you're filling with wax -- anything else will rub off after less than a run. For that reason, all you're doing by adding multiple layers is melting lots of expensive wax, plus giving yourself lots of unnecessary material to scrape.

Hold your iron with the tip pointing down toward the ski. Press the wax against the iron to allow it to drip. Drip one quick, narrow bead down one side of the ski, and back up the other -- that's more than you'll need. Iron it in. Scrape with a plastic scraper, then buff with a cork. Done!

 

[20thSkier]

Just want to point out also: unless you're trying to clean the ski base, you should let the wax cool completely before you scrape.

You can also just omit scraping entirely -- all the excess wax will come off in the first run or two anyway, so unles you're racing it's not really necessary to scrape.

 

[Admin]

You can also just omit scraping entirely

Unless the snow is very cold, in which case you'll stick like glue if you don't.

 

[Chromer]

^^^ What he said.

If you really want to get your bases well impregnated, you wax your skis and put them in a "hot box" for 24 hours or so. It holds them at a temp where the wax stays melted. Overkill unless you're racing.

Personally in the fall I touch up my edges and give a good hot ironing with universal wax with an iron that's just at the verge of smoking. I use a very minimal amount of wax, but heat the ski up enough that the wax solidifies slowly. Let cool, and rub with a green potscrubber until the wax appears "dull" (Or you could pay 3x as much for Swix fibretex). This give you a ski that is very "slick" in 90% of conditions. I generally touch them up every 5-10 days or so after that.

For very cold weather (0F and below) I'll apply a temperature-specific wax.

It is possible to go nuts with riller bars to put temperature-specific structure into your base, but, well, I have better things to do...

 

[Ryan]

Speaking of waxing does anyone out there use a top coat? I'm not a racer so I don't care that much about speed but if you have a well waxed ski and throw on a topper like F4 or expecially that Zardoz teflon I've found that you can get 2-3 blazing fast runs out of it. Of course it burns right off and you are back to where you started but for something to try now and again it can be a lot of fun.

 

[Patrick]

Speaking of waxing does anyone out there use a top coat? I'm not a racer so I don't care that much about speed but if you have a well waxed ski and throw on a topper like F4 or expecially that Zardoz teflon I've found that you can get 2-3 blazing fast runs out of it. Of course it burns right off and you are back to where you started but for something to try now and again it can be a lot of fun.

Hi Ryan,

It's make for an expensive fast 2-3 runs. I have seen people used it for our local Masters races, but I suspect that the net affect might be less than 0.1 on a 30 seconds run compared to a correct wax combination ski. It's important on the World Cup, but I fell that for reactional skiers in just a waste of money.

 

[Ryan]

You are right about the cost but I happened to get my hands on a bunch of sample sized packets of Zardoz Teflon for free. They are like baby wipes in a little pouch that already has the stuff in them. I don't know about time difference but it feels like it would be more than that with the stuff on. It is very quick for a short time.

 

[Patrick]

I don't know about time difference but it feels like it would be more than that with the stuff on. It is very quick for a short time.

I was comparing with a race colour wax brushing combination. It's true than that the stuff slides more better, I just have in mind that I compare with people that have used now and then and the margins seemed to be mininal in a 30 to 45 seconds GS or Slalom courses setting.

 

[BigJay]

I think there are many wrong things going on here...

1- The wax needs to be scraped off in order to provide a good gliding base (the ptex plsu wax combo!)

2- Don't overheat the iron has it does spoil the quality of your wax.

3- Don't overheat the base and use more then less wax. It will keep from burning you base by trying to stretch out the wax too much.

Here are a few easy steps...

1- Heat up the iron and put a gererous layer of wax on your skis/board. The iron should be 2/3 of it's range of heat. Don't let the iron sit on one spot, always keep moving it around.

2- Let the skis/board sit for an hour for the wax to well into the base.

3- Scrap off with a PLASTIC scrapper all of the excess.

4- Brush off the excess with a white ski brush.

At the beguinning of the season, you can clean your wax off with a wax remover. After that, do 2-3 good waxing cycles so that the pores of your base are well "hydrated" and that way, you will keep your base in good shape and it will be faster and last a lot longer.

Wax your base every 5 days of skiing/riding. At least once during the season and once at the beguinning of the season, it will help you glide smoothly!

 

[Anonymous]

I have been using Holmenkol wax and I guarantee you it is the best wax on the maket! Way better than Swix or Toko

Here is the best way to wax your skis:

1st: Clean them between each skiing by hot scraping. Use Holmenkol Betamix.

2nd: Brush it out thoroughly with a good cleaning brush. I use the Holmenkol WC Oval Steel for cleaning.

3rd: Apply a layer of wax by dripping a bead along each side of the center groove and melting with your iron, usually 3-4 passes on the ski will be enough with a iron temperature of 115C for most hydrocarbons.

4th: After the ski cools for about 10 minutes scrape the wax using light to moderate pressure to a thin film with a sharp plastic scraper.

Last: Brush out with a fine copper brush to open the structure lines on the base, usually 4-5 passes, and then polish with a stiff nylon brush. The Holmenkol Micro Steel Brush is another excellent product great for brushing. It has the finest softest bristols on the market.