Val d'Isere, FR March 16-17, 2025

EMSC

Well-known member
Day 1 - Powder is delicious.

After driving over from 3 Valleys with actual snow on the ground/trees was a nice change of pace. After arriving and parking at P0 across from our hotel for the night, it turns out is only ~1 block from the lifts. With all the goings on at 3 Valleys basically none of us had looked at the trail map or had any knowledge of where we were going and randomly chose to go up the closest big lift - Solaise Gondola headed to the left side of the trail map.

That drops you into a big roll-ie type of terrain bowl (with some short tall steeps that mostly are not lift accessed. Fortunately we had ridden up with a Brit named Nigel who gave us the overall lay of the land on that left side of Val d'Isere. We took up the Glacier lift for a lap while salivating at what looked to be 8-12" of fresh snow. Then decided on heading even further left on the trail map by taking the 'rollercoaster' chair lift of Lessieres. It goes wildly up on side of the steep ridgeline and then very sharply back down the other side. Convenient, but it drops you off where you have to ski a very low angle blue down in. We decided to try out the Pyramides chair which looked a bit steeper than the gondola (let me know if any of these names are getting surprisingly repetitive as the lift names at 3 Valleys!). However at the top we saw a poma lift (Signal) going left to what looked like fun terrain and randomly chose to head that way.

Turns out we spent the rest of the morning farming powder just to the side of that short lift. Nicely pitched, winter snow underneath the new snow. We poked around a touch but found skiers left to have tons of room and deep powder. The clouds had not quite lifted yet, but were clearly starting to do so. But for our purposes the small bit of clouds in the area were keeping basically everyone off that lift. Visibility was actually fine, but looking from across or up the valley it would have looked socked in. Eventually that poma did get pretty busy but not till our final couple of laps (not sue how many we did in total, maybe 10?).

Eventually dropping down for a quick bite to eat at the base of the Vallon gondola (we hadn't had breakfast). After which we took the gondola up and checked out the low angle mostly shredded up Cascade lift terrain for 2 laps. After two laps (again tell me if this is repetitive to 3 Valleys) we were so not shocked that clouds and fog came in rapidly for a 5th day in a row, after which we simply made our way back across and down to the village of Val d'Isere in the fog.

The kicker is that our guide the next day said we probably got as good as we could have by farming the snow on that poma. Val d'Isere side had more/deeper snow than Tignes side, and that poma is higher altitude and a bit more pitch than the other high altitude stuff in that immediate area. Certainly total luck involved. No need for lemonade making for once...

You can take about 80% of this piste map and ignore it for this TR. We didn't ski anything to the right of the town of Val d'Isere
val_d_isere_tignes_piste_map__original.6122.jpg


First time I've seen new snow at village level in 15 days of skiing in the alps (lifetime up to that point)
Image00001.jpg


Can just barely make out the rollercoaster chair on the left ridgeline.
Image00002.jpg


Image00014.jpg


The infamous, is it actually closed or...
Image00003.jpg


20250316_110830.jpg


Image00016.jpg


At the top of the Signal Poma you can access portions of backcountry terrain like Les Grand Vallons (we would do so on one run a day later).
20250316_112254.jpg


Uh oh, more people are starting to come...
Image00006.jpg


Image00007.jpg


Image00017.jpg


Image00018.jpg


Image00019.jpg


Image00020.jpg


When the sun was out the views were spectacular of course... (new snow coving up any blemishes of prior no snow).
Image00008.jpg


Cascade lift area
Image00009.jpg


Had to be careful, surprising amount of rocky, almost hidden spots on Cascades lift...
Image00010.jpg


And so much for the sunshine..
Image00011.jpg


Required picture if you are in Val d'Isere?
Image00012.jpg


Didn't see very many actual old structures in town, but this one qualifies...
Image00013.jpg
 
Day 2 - Guided

For day 2 we had Henry from Alpine Experience as a guide. As indicated by my day 1 post, his plan was to hit the Val d'Isere side since it had gotten more snow. We jumped on a bus to the le Laisinant chair arriving with enough time pre-opening to do avi beacon checks. We then went up top and headed over the Col Pers. That route has an extensive amount of terrain and plenty of other guided groups were doing the same. Only a few had skied it on the powder day due to the late lifting clouds.

The upper part we did on run one was a series of JamesDeluxe type low angle meadow skipping type stuff. Once things got steeper things got weird. Essentially hidden rock bands and 'sharks' were all over the place. All of our skis were hitting stuff and doing so in very unexpected places. That part of the run was very not fun. For a bit we literally couldn't trust making a single turn at speed. It was nuts. Then as quickly as it had started, on the lower 1/4 or so the skiing was totally fine again. No change in compass orientation actually lower in altitude. It made no sense but it was what it was.

We then did a variation on the Col Pers for a second lap with Henry radioing back and forth with other Alpine Experience guides. Fortunately it was much less rocky with a single exception that fortunately for the clients only involved Henry hitting a line of rocks that removed a ski. I didn't look and I'm sure it needed some significant work after that hit. Overall a touch steeper on the second route and definitely better mid-level snow.

Finally we did a 3rd lap coming down the Grand Vallons area which is materially steeper (nothing too steep, but more aligned with what I would normally ski). Lots of rock prevention route finding meant slightly shorter than normal stretches of turns at a time, but also some of the best, longest stretches of turns of the day at the same time. Very good skiing overall. Given that it was the last day of our trip and we had a 3 hour drive we ended there as it was already mid-afternoon (Henry does a specific guide rate that goes till 2p if you want). So despite the rock damage (lemons, and everyone had at least some), a overall nice 2 powder days (Lemonade) to end the trip.

Entry at top of Col Pers
Image00012.jpg


No idea why upper part is out of focus but shows one of the low angle upper sections well
Image00001.jpg


Image00013.jpg


Image00014.jpg


Image00015.jpg


2nd ~10+ min hike part way down 1st run
20250317_101125.jpg


Believe it or not this N facing pitch had TONS of hidden rocks about 2/3 of the way down.
Image00021.jpg


Col Pers hike to start 2nd run
Image00004.jpg


Image00005.jpg


Image00006.jpg


Image00007.jpg


Image00016.jpg


Image00018.jpg


Image00019.jpg


Image00020.jpg


Heading up Fornet tram for 3rd lap
Image00008.jpg


Image00009.jpg


Definitely a bit more pitch top to bottom on Grand Vallon
Image00010.jpg


IMG_0352v2.jpg


IMG_0360v2.jpg



Image00011.jpg


Guide video: Henrys Avalanche Talk Video
 
Last edited:
The upper part we did on run one was a series of JamesDeluxe type low angle meadow skipping type stuff. Once things got steeper things got weird. Essentially hidden rock bands and 'sharks' were all over the place. All of our skis were hitting stuff and doing so in very unexpected places. That part of the run was very not fun. For a bit we literally couldn't trust making a single turn at speed. It was nuts.
Jamesdeluxe-approved offpiste may not be very exciting but at least you won't have to repair core shots!

Of course I hate ice or concrete conditions on groomers; however, hitting rocks (especially when they ruin otherwise nice offpiste snow) is the worst ski feeling of all. I'm reminded of a warning posted on Epicski 20+ years ago -- whenever you see a beautiful patch of untouched easily-accessible snow at Big Sky, don't even think of going there because locals know that rocks/sharks are lurking just underneath the surface.

OK, I'll stop being a buzzkill on an otherwise very positive report.
 
Back
Top