Verbier, CH, Feb. 3, 2024

Tony Crocker

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The blue sky Saturday attracted a crowd so we barely got into the Le Chable parking at 9:10am. On Jan. 16 Liz and I skied Chaussures and Gentianes off piste routes to Tortin, but it clouded over after 2pm so I did not get a shot at Mont Gele, which I had only skied in 2004 on my first Alps trip with NASJA.
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So this time I headed for Mont Gele after warmup cruisers on Attelas and the Lac chairs, where Liz was amused by this jacket she’s seen a few times.
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The Mont Gele tram holds 45 people and has a 15 minute turnaround time. I got up there a bit after 11am with this view down to the Lac chairs.
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And here’s the view down the Attelas chair toward Verbier and Le Chable.
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The steep chalk off the northeast face was uniformly fantastic.
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This area must have been well sheltered from the wind that produced so much sastrugi at Val d’Isere and Zermatt.

However I ventured cautiously due to ample signs of a cliff band.
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Past the cliff band this is the view up with my ski line in red.
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Yellow ski route poles follow the purple line to a saddle and then continue down the sunny south side.

The other set of ski route poles are in the open bowl at right in this view up.
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From where I took the above two pics, I had a straightforward ski to join the skiroute here.
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View down from there:
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Lower down the Tortin – Gentianes tram comes into view.
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There are four skiers dead center in the pic above. I skied that same diagonal line below the tram tower on Jan. 16.

The ski route poles are on the sunny side of the canyon with a partially crunchy traverse, eventually going into shade here.
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The snow is better on the other side but that canyon is deep and I wanted to avoid hiking out of it like the skier in the bottom of the picture.

After passing through the notch in that pic the snow became icy. This was at 7,800 feet per my watch, likely the rain line from the Jan. 17-18 storm. Val d’Isere’s snow in the Grands Vallons off piste turned from chalk to hardpack at the same elevation.

Liz skied Chaussures and we met at Tortin where she was delighted to see this Great Pyrenee, her favorite dog.
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Mustang Powder had one as a lodge dog most of the years I skied there.

I took a lap on Chaussures myself.
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Snow was excellent if you traversed out here skier’s right. Chaussures was popular as the exit piste starts near that rain line so the off piste part is still all in good snow.

We left Tortin via the tram and skied to La Chaux, including the same mellow off piste section as on Jan. 16. I then made my way to the Attelas gondola for another shot at Mont Gele at 2pm.

While riding the tram I observed a group skiing a west facing couloir, skiers circled in red. First zoomed views:
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And here’s the big picture:
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Here a skier is about to drop into the south face from the top, view of Grand Combin at center distance.
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I looked over the edge and suspected correctly that the direct south was already past its prime. I followed the ski route I marked in purple earlier as I could get in a few more turns in that steep chalk before traversing through the notch.

At the top of the chalk I took a profile picture of the northeast face skiroute leading to Tortin.
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Approaching the notch:
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South side starts mellow.
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View of south side bowl from below:
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Direct south facing was quite heavy, probably at its best around 1pm. The snow was more supportable skier’s left which tilted more southwest. I dawdled quite a bit on this run, so skiers from the next tram were approaching.
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I skied to La Chaux and rode its tram to Gentianes. I hoped the far skier’s right of that skiroute to Tortin might have softened in the sun but not really.
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It became hard at the same elevation as the run from Mont Gele. Skier’s right did have fewer moguls and people scraping the hard snow vs. being close to the yellow skiroute poles though.

I rode the Chaussures gondola, skied a short off piste down to Lac on the now illuminated northwest slope. Then I skied with lots of weekenders from Attelas down to Madran. End of day Verbier is quite intense with skier traffic but at least it’s in the afternoon sun most of the time. The 1936 yurt where we met Bob Mazerei Jan. was hopping with a DJ and this ski parapente coming in for a landing.
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On her way down Liz got a great pic of Verbier with Savoleyres in right background.
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I skied 22,500 vertical, and unlike the other days with quantity more than half of it was off piste. So our trip finished on a very high note.
 
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unlike the other days with quantity more than half of it was off piste.
Impressive photos and I can see why the 4 Vallées are such a big expert destination.


our trip finished on a very high note.
Excellent news. I don't recall ever getting skunked with no new snow on a week-long Alps trip until last year in Serre Chevalier/Queyras and now this season at Val d'Isere. Tony and Liz clearly bringing along their SoCal drought climate overseas.


Liz skied Chaussures and we met at Tortin where she was delighted to see this Great Pyrenee, her favorite dog.
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Our neighbor two doors down has one. He's old and has hip dysplasia, so the two of us have very similar gaits at the moment. :icon-sad:


I ventured cautiously due to ample signs of a cliff band.
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Good to see that Launchernalp hasn't deterred you from pursuing your enjoyment of hunting and pecking.
 
enjoyment of hunting and pecking.
This is a much more comfortable exercise at places like Verbier and Val d'Isere which attract high end skiers. In the current scenario freeride terrain at those places is skied more like in North America, and in scenarios like this I'm not just following a stray track but tracks made by hundreds of skiers. A large volume of tracks does not mean you can ignore the day's avy forecast, but it does mean they won't lead to something where you have to launch a cliff.

Tony and Liz clearly bringing along their SoCal drought climate overseas.
We arrived home to a deluge at LAX which is still ongoing. Baldy has had 2 feet so far in February with another 3 feet expected this week.
 
Past the cliff band this is the view up with my ski line in red.
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Yellow ski route poles follow the purple line to a saddle and then continue down the sunny south side.

That's an interesting exposed line.

After passing through the notch in that pic the snow became icy. This was at 7,800 feet per my watch, likely the rain line from the Jan. 17-18 storm. Val d’Isere’s snow in the Grands Vallons off piste turned from chalk to hardpack at the same elevation.

I think that was due to the warmup we had the preceding week. After cold winter temps (January 20-23), no more than 30f in Val d'Isere village, there was a strong S/SW foehn, and I noticed on Thursday that temps hit nearly 46f mid-day in Val d'Isere proper. So, I think it was more melt/freeze than rain.

Liz skied Chaussures and we met at Tortin where she was delighted to see this Great Pyrenee, her favorite dog.

They are very sweet dogs. Some can be a bit aloof and shy and stick to their owners, like Bernese Mountain Dogs. Due to the drool factor, I am less enthusiastic about Newfoundlands and St. Bernards. But you need a good vacuum with all of those breeds.

While riding the tram I observed a group skiing a west facing couloir, skiers circled in red. First zoomed views:
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Are those the couloirs immediately under the Mt. Gele tram? I spent hours lapping those in 2019. Better than most of the Big Sky/Lone Peak lines - with super quick returns. It's not quite as difficult as they look, and it's a super easy 2-minute approach. I thought I died and went to heaven. Verbier, Switzerland: February 12-16, 2019 Afternoon of Feb 13th.

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I skied 22,500 vertical, and unlike the other days with quantity more than half of it was off piste. So our trip finished on a very high note.

Nice way to end things. Verbier is one of the best! I was a bit disappointed not to get to it on this trip.

To ski some more technical couloir terrain at Verbier (or La Grave), you don't really need/want powder. It can create undesirable slough.

My favorite three ski complexes in the Alps are: Val d'Isere/Tignes, Verbier, and St. Anton/Zurs/Lech. I think Val d'Isere and St. Anton are best for big powder expanses scattered all over their massive tenures. Verbier is best for easy-to-access, true steep technical skiing.

My next tier is: Andermatt/Engelberg, La Grave, 3 Vallees. Followed by Zermatt, Chamonix, Courmayeur and St. Moritz.

Note: Zermatt is a bit of an iffy proposition. I have been watching the Hohtalli cable car off-piste, and the yellow itineraries have not been open for almost 2 years. The Rote Nase cable car that accesses those runs? Not sure when the last time it operated with regularity. It has a snow issue combined with rocky terrain - I cannot rank it higher. Andermatt/Engelberg would consistently offer a better expert experience.

Also, St. Moritz is a bit underrated for steep skiing. If there is snow (Big IF some years), the combination of Corvatsch with Diavolezza has technical terrain and big open powder fields. Corviglia, too, under the right circumstances.
 
Are those the couloirs immediately under the Mt. Gele tram? I spent hours lapping those in 2019. Better than most of the Big Sky/Lone Peak lines - with super quick returns.
Line #3 crosses diagonally under the tram and I saw a couple of skiers in there on my first ride up. The pics I posted are from line #2.
It's not quite as difficult as they look, and it's a super easy 2-minute approach.
Yes those lines look extreme from a distance. With Alps scale, I realize they are probably not that narrow in person. You can never tell how steep something like that is without inspecting it in person. They are still DFU so I would want to be guided first time. Also with age I believe I should keep the longer lines no more than 35 degrees and be extremely picky about snow conditions. The lines that were near the current limit of my current comfort zone were the off piste couloir on the north side of La Thuile and the diagonal line under the Lanches chair at Tignes. The infrequently skied chute on my second to last run at Baldy yesterday was in that ballpark too.
 
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