Zinal-Grimentz, CH: 03/07 + 3/08/17

jamesdeluxe

Administrator
Like most of my discoveries in the Alps, I learned about the Val d'Anniviers region through numerous positive trip reports on Alpinforum that extolled the lift-served and lift-assisted freeride terrain. In a bit of "be careful what you wish for," I arrived during a multi-day storm cycle so a bit more than half of my eight-day visit to the canton of Valais was marked by poor visibility. While that was my overriding memory of the trip, looking at the TRs several years later, it actually wasn't quite that bad as I scored 3.5 bluebird days.
Zinal and Grimentz are the best known of the four ski areas in the Val d'Anniviers; however, they have far less brand recognition than popular nearby destination resorts Crans-Montana to the north and the 4 Vallées (Verbier) to the west:
valais map.png


This was the best online map I could find of the two areas; however, it must be from a dozen or so years ago because you don't see the tram that goes from the village of Grimentz to mid-mountain at Zinal. To give you an ideal of scale, they're about the same general footprint as Alta and Snowbird -- two ski areas separated by a ridge/valley -- but with more vertical. If you ski all the way to the base villages, Zinal has 4,300 verts and Grimentz has 4,700.
Zinal_pistemap.jpg


Zinal
With virtually all of the terrain except the valley runs being above treeline, it was often tough going despite the excellent conditions -- often feeling like black and white TV. Thus, I had to edit most of the photos below to brighten them, adjust the contrast, pump up the color, and rotate them slightly because most were askew due to slight vertigo. If I'd been at a North American ski area (with trees more or less to the top), this would've been a nice calf-deep quasi powder day; however, with the flat light, it was challenging at times.
003.JPG


005.JPG


The life of a destination skier: going out on days when a local would've stayed home.
016.JPG


018.JPG


Looking across the ridge:
008.JPG


Here's what it looks like on a sunny day:
Zinal.jpg


Heading down through a nice chute with numerous other narrow shots in the background:
007.JPG


I followed these two on a couple runs through light chop that skied nicely:
014.JPG


011.JPG


Some nice turns when it cleared up a bit:
012.JPG


010.JPG


017.JPG


Mid-afternoon, heading down to Zinal on a long valley run where visibility improved toward the bottom:
020.JPG


023.JPG


Nicely pitched right to the bottom:
025.JPG


026.JPG
 
Last edited:
Grimentz
Here's a south-facing map of the Val d'Anniviers that gives you an alternate look at how they're laid out. You can see the tram connecting the two ski areas along with the connecting trail down into Grimentz:
Val d'Anniviers Map.jpg


Arriving in the village -- looks like a good day to stay inside in a bar or cafe!
001.JPG


My day at Grimentz was a slight improvement visibility-wise from Zinal; however, you'd never know from certain pix!
003.JPG


The guy ahead of me had apparently been to Colorado (Silverton?):
002.JPG


A detachable Poma with the old-school red and green loading lights -- makes me feel like I'm in France:
004.JPG


010.JPG


Further up:
009.JPG


The highlight of the day was skiing five times in a row the pitch to the looker's right of this chair with mostly untouched knee-deep powder:
007.JPG


Heading down below treeline:
011.JPG


Valley run:
013.JPG


014.JPG


In short: a good reconnaissance visit; however, I'd obviously like to go back under bluebird skies like this (scroll down a bit).
 
Last edited:
I see a lot of elbow room on the slopes in all these photos! I guess some of that is based on lower traffic/lower brand recognition resorts, but also because of reduced visibility chasing folks off the hill. It makes me think that New England is probably the home of the most avid low viz/cloudy day/storm day skiers in the world. I suppose that's due to the good tree skiing that remains viable during low viz days in the Northeast. Also, because in the Northeast you have to get the good snow while it lasts and that's pretty much as it falls and very shortly after:eusa-drool:
 
Last edited:
I guess some of that is based on lower traffic/lower brand recognition resorts, but also because of reduced visibility chasing folks off the hill.
The lower profile resorts are only part of the story. The main part at most Euro areas is that 95+% of the Euros stay on piste all the time. Some places with top freeride reputations show more evidence of off piste traffic: St. Anton, Verbier, Grands-Montets. But in general even high profile places with more mainstream reputations don't have that much powder competition: Davos, Zermatt-Cervinia come to mind by my experience.

I'm surprised at jimk's comments about storm day skiing given that he spends his winters at Snowbird. By my extensive experience I see lots of locals show up on LCC storm days. The reduced visibility issue is a widespread issue in the Alps, but much less so in North America due to the higher tree line within lift served vertical. Mammoth is one of the big exceptions to this, and I thus avoid big storm days there. Even so, Mammoth lift lines on storm days tend to be long with over half the lifts closed. LCC has fewer lift closures than Mammoth but does have extensive terrain closures for avalanche risk, and most of the limited open terrain gets tracked out well within a day even when weather is challenging.

In James' map above, you can see Sierre where we stayed at upper right and the Nendaz-Veysonnaz lifts at lower left. We did not ski Vercorin but we drove up there to have this carnivore's dream dinner at La Brentaz.
IMG_1389.JPG


I'm about to dig into a succulent filet while Liz' steak tartare (best of her life review) is in foreground. Note the name on the wine bottle is "Soleil Noir," perhaps a collectible for eclipse chasers.
 
Last edited:
Both mountains look very good for uncrowded off-piste.

Were you able to ski the tram Grimentz-Zinal? The north-facing black piste/bowl looks quite interesting.
 
Last edited:
Were you able to ski the tram Grimentz-Zinal? The north-facing black piste/bowl looks quite interesting.
No, due to the flat light/vertigo when the fog got thick, I had to be careful about terrain choices as I didn't want to be brailling my way down a steep bowl with nothing for orientation -- that's a big buzzkill for me. I'm reasonably sure that this spot (the boarder on the left) is where you turn onto the black piste that takes you from Zinal into Grimentz. Oh well, something to check out on my next visit when it's sunny.

007-jpg.32139
 
We did not ski Vercorin but we drove up there to have this carnivore's dream dinner at La Brentaz.
Was that restaurant a recommendation from Fraser or your expat American friend? You and Liz certainly get the full gastronomic experience on your Euro visits.

Interesting to see clearly in this map how Vercorin, Zinal, and Grimentz are all NE-facing while St. Luc/Chandolin faces directly west.
val-danniviers-map-jpg.32152
 
Last edited:
No, due to the flat light/vertigo when the fog got thick, I had to be careful about terrain choices as I didn't want to be brailling my way down a steep bowl with nothing for orientation -- that's a big buzzkill for me.

Yeah, I had forgotten how difficult off-piste can be in the Alps until 2020 during snowy days at Laax-Flims and Arosa-Lenzeheide. At Arosa, I pushed through a snowy morning that was challenging even between piste markers but cleared a bit later. Laax was difficult alpine off-piste in the AM, but glades and tree-line alpine were great in PM.

It's not fun to freefall a couple of feet unexpectedly between turns. Or get rolled by an unseen obstacle.
 
I must have skied a dozen days this winter at Snowbird when Mineral Basin (large open bowl with few trees) was open, but visibility was miserable. I'm gradually getting smarter about how to ski the mountain and I only went back there about six out of those twelve days:rotfl:
 
Dinner restaurant selections are generally from Trip Advisor. By reading narrative reviews from a handful of the top rated places, we can usually figure out the local highlights. The other place we ate in Sierre was Chateau de Villa, a raclette place that gave us a sample of 5 different local cheeses.
IMG_1414.JPG

You can continue ordering the ones you like best, but of course it's very filling and we could manage only one extra plate.

That last day in Val Thorens was a tough one for visibility. I explored some of the lifts there I had not skied with guides, plus I was relatively close to Club Med when I was ready to bail. I later learned that the Meribel and Courchevel valleys had less fog that day.
 
Information about the off-piste run I am interested at Zinal-Grimentz. Looks very doable.

Corne de Sorebois / Lac de Moiry
Zinal
Difficult
A fun freeride run with great scenery over Lac de Moiry. Later, following the road down to Grimentz.
Description
A very easily accessible run from the top of the Sorebois lift. With good snow conditions, the slope down to the Lac de Moiry can be a great experience. Once past the dam, the route follows what is the road in summer for the most part back to Grimentz.
Suitable for both skis and snowboards.

Link

1704820412851.png
 
I will likely spend at least 2 days at Zinal-Grimentz, or 1.5 days. Maybe just a half day at St. Luc.

Are buses easy to navigate? Or car best?
 
Last edited:
Back
Top