Gulf of Slides, Mt. Washington (NH) massif -- 4/25/2

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Sometimes you just get lucky! <BR> <BR>After horrific winds (+/- 100 mph) and cold temps on the Rockpile on Saturday while we were biding our time at Sugarloaf, Sunday dawned calm, cold and clear as a bell on Mt. Washington. After Dan and I enjoyed a cholesterol-laden breakfast at Welch's Restaurant in Gorham we arrived at the Pinkham Notch parking lot at 8 am sharp. <BR> <BR><IMG SRC="http://www.firsttracksonline.com/discus2/messages/8/3859.jpg" ALT="Gulf of Slides from Pinkham Notch"> <BR> <BR>We waited around until 8:15 or so, but with no sign of Evan or his friend Meghan we hit the trail. <BR> <BR>The Gulf of Slides Ski Trail doesn't drain in quite the same way as a typical hiking trail, and as a result there were some very wet spots down low. After negotiating the mud and slop the trail quickly begins to climb, switching back and forth in a series of fall-away turns and double fall lines. We found ourselves wishing that the trail itself still had snow cover, for the Gulf of Slides Ski Trail would be one rollicking run. <BR> <BR>The pack was already growing heavy by the time Ironman Evan and Meghan caught -- and naturally passed -- us on the way up. Patches of snow finally gave way to relatively sustained snowcover on the trail before we reached the first rescue cache at 3,700 feet or so. As we paused for a break, a lone hiker approached and introduced himself as none other but our own Lftgly! <BR> <BR>Shortly after the second rescue cache, our objective -- Main Gully -- came into view: <BR> <BR><IMG SRC="http://www.firsttracksonline.com/discus2/messages/8/3860.jpg" ALT="Main Gully"> <BR> <BR>Evan and Meghan were found lounging in the slide's runout, along with about a half dozen other folks. This for me was one huge benefit of the Gulf of Slides: the absence of thousands of yahoos who were surely next door in Tuckerman Ravine. We saw about a dozen skiers and riders all day in the gully -- just about the right number, as far as I'm concerned. <BR> <BR>The day was warming rapidly in the strong sun. After a moment or two spent emptying our packs of unnecessary gear, Dan and I began our ascent (Ironman Evan, true to form, was already a good third of the way up by this point). Meghan had fractured two vertebrae at Jay Peak back in January, and therefore was sitting out the skiing, choosing instead to simply relax in the warm spring sun. <BR> <BR><IMG SRC="http://www.firsttracksonline.com/discus2/messages/8/3861.jpg" ALT="Dan begins to climb the Main Gully"> <BR> <BR>A prominent splitting, cracking ice bulge blocked the way about a third of the distance up the gully. By the time we reached the bulge, Evan had already started down, carving exquisite turns in the soft spring corn. <BR> <BR>Although negotiable via a creative route up, I was grateful for my crampons after watching Dan struggle to retain his foot hold. With crampons on I felt like Spiderman clinging to the side of a skyscraper in the ice-slickened 40-degree chute. After climbing to a point just above the bulge, Dan was justifiably a bit spooked by the lack of footing and we decided to rest for a moment before starting our run from there. As we caught our breath Evan had already returned to that point, opting to continue on to the top of the gully. With a bit of encouragement, Dan relented and we again strapped our skis to our packs and continued on to the top of the gully instead of skiing down from there. <BR> <BR>Small trees in the gully split the chute into three, and we angled for the climber's leftmost line as it appeared to offer the easiest footing and the best cover. After what seemed like an endless climb, stopping often to rest, we finally reached the top of the 800 vertical-foot chute precisely 5 hours after we had left the trailhead at Pinkham Notch: <BR> <BR><IMG SRC="http://www.firsttracksonline.com/discus2/messages/8/3862.jpg" ALT="Looking down from the top of Main Gully"> <BR> <BR><IMG SRC="http://www.firsttracksonline.com/discus2/messages/8/3863.jpg" ALT="View south toward Slides Peak and beyond from the top of Main Gully -- note the slopes of Attitash Bear Peak barely visible in the distance"> <BR> <BR>Dan and I paused to savor the view over a snack. Nearly impenetrable krumholz prevented any further ascent for the few remaining feet onto the ridgeline and over toward the snowfields (we later learned that Ironman Evan actually bushwhacked through that stuff!). A gentle breeze cooled our faces, already baking in the strong spring sun. These was a rare day indeed on the northeast's highest mountain! Before long, however, the wait was too much to resist, and we stepped into our skis and headed down. <BR> <BR>It's difficult to find the words to describe the quality of that corn snow. It just doesn't get any better than it was yesterday. A solid base underfoot was topped with an inch or two of the smoothest and silkiest corn imaginable. It was sublime. Arc after controlled arc carried us down the center line from the top through what was at times untracked corn. When that line ended we jogged to skier's left a few feet and followed a seamless line that carried us past the danger of the ice bulge. Now back at the wide-open spaces of the lower third of the gully, we opened it up and began to crank aggressive, nearly wall-to-wall turns back to the staging area at the bottom. <BR> <BR>Smiles beamed all around. Cheers were exchanged, but words were hardly necessary, for the expressions on our faces and the lights in our eyes said it all. The turns were as sweet as could be, that's for sure, but somehow tasted even sweeter due to the effort required to achieve them. <BR> <BR>After the day before at Sugarloaf, and the energy expended lugging heavy alpine gear around for 5 hours, I was convinced that my day was done and proudly announced so to my companions. I planned to relax in the warm sun as Dan and Evan took one more run, but pangs of jealousy provided a second wind, and before long I found myself again ascending the gully. <BR> <BR>Evan continued again to the top of the gully, this time following a route to climber's right. Dan followed a similar line but only climbed about two-thirds of the way, armed with my crampons that I had loaned to him after watching him struggle to retain footing on the first run. Now myself without crampons, I went only about half way up the gully to a point on climber's right just above the ice bulge, and kicked out a platform for myself to sit on where I could hang onto a tree for security. I decided to wait there for Dan and Evan to ski down, photographing their runs before joining them for the final half of the descent. <BR> <BR>Those were my intentions, anyway. My technology had other ideas, for later in the day the media card in my digital camera became corrupt, rendering many of the photos taken yesterday -- including those of Dan's and Evan's exceptional runs -- inaccessible and unreadable. Such is life, I suppose. In any event, I thoroughly enjoyed the cloudless views and a Power Bar while waiting, and managed to snap some photos of unknown telemark skiers following Dan's and Evan's route: <BR> <BR><IMG SRC="http://www.firsttracksonline.com/discus2/messages/8/3864.jpg" ALT="an unknown telemark skier descends Main Gully"> <BR> <BR>It was now 3 pm, and time to call it a day. Never one to choose downhiking and carrying all of my gear when some of it might be possible to negotiate with skis and ski boots on my feet, I opted to ski down as far as the patches of snow would carry me. Dan and Evan had similar ideas. Meghan started out on snowshoes. We all were on the trail by 3:15. <BR> <BR>As most rational people would consider the Gulf of Slides Ski Trail to now be unskinnable (Evan's not included amongst them), the snow on the trail was now horribly postholed. The skiing here was anything but pleasant, but it still beat carrying skis and heavy alpine ski boots in my pack. I'd estimate that we managed to drop close to 500 vertical feet before the snow cover finally became too intermittent to make a ski descent worthwhile. We clipped out of our skis, changed our boots, and packed everything for the 2.5-mile down hike. <BR> <BR>Dan and I marched on like robots, more from tired determination than from any kind of energy. We only hoped that our feet would follow instructions and land on the ground where our brains told them to. Dan would call out readings from his altimeter: "2000 feet to go." "1306 feet to go." About the only other time he spoke during the down hike was to ask, "Did I mention how sweet that corn was?" And he asked it repeatedly. <BR> <BR>With only one rest break, we were back at the car in just under two hours from the start of our descent. Although physically drained, we both felt an enormous sense of satisfaction. The weather had been perfect, the snow had been perfect, and the company had been perfect. What more could you ask for? <BR> <BR>Well, on second thought, a shortening of the 5-hour drive home would have been nice!
 
meanwhile... I was studying for my fu**** test ! <BR> <BR>ahhhhh... life s**** sometimes <BR> <BR>Thanks for the report Marc. I didn't think it could be that nice this weekend, but anyway, I didn't have the possibility to come... <BR> <BR>Too bad for your technology <IMG SRC="http://www.firsttracksonline.com/discus2/clipart/sad.gif" ALT=":("><IMG SRC="http://www.firsttracksonline.com/discus2/clipart/sad.gif" ALT=":("><IMG SRC="http://www.firsttracksonline.com/discus2/clipart/sad.gif" ALT=":("> I know what it is to lose some super pics ! argggghhh <BR> <BR>No skiing for me until may 3 just after this <FONT COLOR="ff0000">•••••</FONT> test. <BR> <BR>I begin my summer term on may 4, but on the early term, I should have some time to ski midweek at least !
 
Oh, yes, what a perfect day! I had my doubts that it would soften up when I left Pinkham, but we were rewarded for our efforts. <BR> <BR>It was great to meet Marc and Dan. <BR> <BR>I was counting on Marc getting some good photos, as my camera has died. I'm glad your chip saved some of the picts. Monday morning is tough, but these photos from yesterday certainly gave my spirits a lift for lunch break!
 
Awesome. Thanks for that, Marc. Classes on Monday are now much easier to sit through because I now I have something to think about ;) <BR> <BR>-Scott
 
If you can access the card you may be able to recover the pictures using photo recovery software like this <BR> <BR>Looks like an awesome trip one of these years i'll get up to mount washington to ski. I was down in sunny florida in disney world last weekend. Big difference.
 
oops guess the link didn't work in my post, heres the url <A HREF="http://download.com.com/3000-2248-10256002.html?tag=lst-0-1" TARGET="_top">http://download.com.com/3000-2248-10256002.html?tag=lst-0-1</A> <BR> <BR>Thats a shareware program so it's free to try. I know there are some out there that are freeware that was just the first one i found.
 
Dang it, woodi2259, where were you last night before I reformatted the card?? <IMG SRC="http://www.firsttracksonline.com/discus2/clipart/sad.gif"> I tried to repair it with XP, but I was exhausted and therefore didn't bother with third-party remedies.
 
Damn!Nice photos!It definately worked out for you switching days to get the best weather.I sure wish we could have hooked up.I thought about you guys many times on sunday.How did the other gullies look?South Snowfield?Undermining?Falling ice?Cravasses?Bugs?Did you have any problem postholing? <BR> I can only hope the stars align for next years GOS trip. <BR>((* <BR>*))NHPH
 
Here's a parallel accounting to Marc G's: <BR> <BR>Strange arithmetic. <BR> <BR>The day started at Pinkham notch about 8AM. Ended up back there at 5:30. In between were about 8.5 hours hiking, and 50 minutes of sitting around. Which by my calculations leaves about 10 minutes to ski two runs of 800 and 600 verts. <BR> <BR>Followed by a six hour drive home. <BR> <BR>Strange arithmetic. <BR> <BR>But oh those ten minutes. <BR> <BR>Giddy turn after turn on the kind of corn I've sat at my desk summers and winters trying to recall from the 2 or 3 encounters I've had in my ski lifetime. Big kernels that spray out from behind your rear ski as they gently hold you up and lower you down on a slope too steep to ski so easy. <BR> <BR>Second, last run, down towards the bottom I lost it, sort of. <BR> <BR>Got so wrapped up and mindless of the turns. The motion continuum. Loop left, jumping down pulling down, loop right, jump down pull down reach pull. Left loop, right loop, left right, loop loop loop loop. Jump jump down again again into the next. What this? What reaching down or being pulled or being held in a dreamy freefall. Got giddy and jumped reached higher and downer over and over as in equilibrium down swerve and up down each turn pulled, all balanced up down left loop right loop down loop down loop down loop. <BR> <BR>Eventually, something fell out of whack and I spun out of sync, tumbled and rolled back up, the rhythm still almost within grasp, and finished the last 50 verts or so grinning and slowly becoming aware of just how out of mind all had gotten. <BR> <BR>And that was it. <BR> <BR>10 minutes of the kind of skiing that can stay in you through a summer or longer. It only took 15 hours and 50 minutes to get it. A ski/time bargain. Strange arithmetic indeed. <BR> <BR>One of the things that hit me--afterward--was how easily understood that ski/time arithmetic would be to most on this list and how incomprehensible to just about anybody else anywhere that I knew. Maybe EvanO started me on that train of thought as we scrambled up kicking toeholds in the packed-in corn. Asked me 'did any of the folks I knew in Manhattan have any idea what this is all about?' And of course the answer was no. Nobody I know in my weekday gets this. Don't just don't get it--can't grasp it. It won't be fit into any model they can draw on. "Do they get the commitment?" Yeah, that they get, but the rest is like talking into a storage room filled with nothing but silent things, things all necessary maybe some other time but now, useless unneeded inert. "And the climb was like... and the snow was like... " Thwhwhwhwhwhwhhwhwhwhwhwh... (pause) "Was it cold?" <BR> <BR>Another thing that hit me was amazement at what many of you on this list do. For me, this day at GoS was a big, big deal. Some of you toss these days off like I munch down an oreo or 5. Hats off to you guys. I am impressed. <BR> <BR>But the main thing that hit me was the corn. The day before, at Sugarloaf, we skied corn. Marc was saying how good it was and I sort of agreed but in the back of my mind was, 'naah, that may be corn, but it's not the corn I think of--when I'm lucky have dreams of, though even when I think of it in the day it's like dreaming.' Corn like the spring day before I knew there was such a thing as corn, just learning to ski, coming down a, for me then, steep wide even pitch when suddenly in the warm sun the turns turned so easy easy spraying wide easy. That was corn. The stuff at Sugarloaf was sort of like a spreading of wet sugar. At GoS it was big fat wet melty kernels as big as beebees. That's when you can say, and mean, it doesn't get any better than this. Marc called it the difference between manmade and natural corn. Maybe, I still wonder if the right weather can't turn manmade into this same dreamy stuff. I don't know, But what ever. This was corn to make one delirious. <BR> <BR>++++ <BR> <BR>Pardon the addled rambles. Here are a few more concrete recollections. <BR> <BR>I'd never looked down so long and arrow straight a chute as at GoS. Guess that's why it's called gulf of _slides_, duh, but I hadn't put 2 + 2 together before. At the top is sort of a delta in reverse of parallel short straight shots, 8, 10 feet wide, through the krumholz, going 20 yards, 50 yards, then deadending and you'd traverse over a few feet then start anew. By halfway down all had funneled into the one main chute--was it 20 feet wide?--and all, top to bottom, straight, straight, straight. It was something all right looking down from the top. <BR> <BR>The upclimb was nervous-making, in parts. (The first upclimb, that is. For the second I borrowed Marc's crampons--the ones I'd ragged on him for for being such a gear geek--and what a difference they made. Thanks again Marc.) But on the first, some places you could kick in a solid toehold. Sometimes even for a stretch of 15-20 steps and up you'd climb, happily, quickly, solidly, wearily, like scrambling up a ladder (and even then, toes would cramp from the strain of never having the chance to rest the heel). Then would come the sections where snow cover over ice thinned down to what?, maybe an inch? You could sort of kick in, but not really, and eventually all it came down to was the scary prayerful feeling of slamming your boot tip up to solid frozen stuff and hoping that the thin little layer of icy grains under the first inch of boot sole would hold you long enough to get the next foot down, enough times till you reached something softer and sturdier. <BR> <BR>Then there were the undermined places where for a half a second the grip felt sure, then in the second half of a second, down your leg would punch through to air, up to your thigh, and hang there while you tried to see if your other leg could lift you up or would punch through again too. <BR> <BR>Then there were the times when I'd stamp out a secure foot rest and Marc would tell me to turn around and admire the view. Sometimes I did. Sometimes I couldn't wouldn't. <BR> <BR>Stamping out a platform to put skis on was a new experience. I guess it was no different from what you'd expect, but still it felt foreign and pretty neat. <BR> <BR>That's it. <BR> <BR>Gotta sleep. <BR> <BR>Amazing place. Strange arithmetic. <BR> <BR>--telenaut
 
<BLOCKQUOTE><HR SIZE=0><!-Quote-!><FONT SIZE=1><B>Quote:</B></FONT><P>It definately worked out for you switching days to get the best weather.I sure wish we could have hooked up.<!-/Quote-!><HR SIZE=0></BLOCKQUOTE> <BR>Yeah, with the 100-mph winds on Saturday and mix of rain/snow flying sideways up there, the move to Sunday was a necessary one IMO. Sorry that it conflicted with your schedule. It was a pleasant surprise to bump into Lftgly up there, though. <BR><BLOCKQUOTE><HR SIZE=0><!-Quote-!><FONT SIZE=1><B>Quote:</B></FONT><P>How did the other gullies look?South Snowfield?Undermining?Falling ice?Cravasses?Bugs?Did you have any problem postholing?<!-/Quote-!><HR SIZE=0></BLOCKQUOTE> <BR>The other gullies looked to be in similar shape to the Main Gully. The GoS Ski Trail ends up at #1, so we ended up at #1 along with most of the others. No other rhyme or reason to our chosen destination. South Snowfield looked to have more than adequate cover (here's as close a view as I got that's it on the left): <BR> <BR><IMG SRC="http://www.firsttracksonline.com/discus2/messages/8/3870.jpg" ALT="Snowfields (left) and Main Gully (right)"> <BR> <BR>but of course it's less steep and offers less vertical per run. Evan trudged over to it from the top of Main Gully after a heinous bushwhack through the krumholtz, and decided to stay in Main Gully due to the climb back out or bushwhack from the bottom back to our staging area. <BR> <BR>Falling ice? None. Crevasses? None. Bugs? None. No problems with postholing, for the remarkably low temps on Saturday night set things up nicely. If it had been softer I would've used skins or snowshoes for the snow-covered portions of the GoS Ski Trail, but I guessed correctly and left the snowshoes in the car to save weight from this horrendously heavy backpack: <BR> <BR><IMG SRC="http://www.firsttracksonline.com/discus2/messages/8/3871.jpg" ALT="Marc on the ascent"> <BR> <BR>By the time anyone here may go back there, I'd imagine that most of the snow on the GoS Ski Trail will be melted out, so this should be a non-issue.
 
Really, really, reeeeeeeeeeeeeeeaaallllllllyyyy sorry I missed the trip this year. Thanks for the pics and the play by play. I will be there next year (unless I cave in to my obsession and wind up there the weekend of 5/8,9 "on the way to Killington").
 
I consider to hike the GOS trail this summer to see how it's like. <BR> <BR>I admit that with 12 or so skiers instead of 1200 in the ravine with still a 500' high runout (even in horrible conditions) on april 25 this year, it convinced me that it should be an interesting place to go next year.
 
I would invite Telenaut and any other aficionados of corn snow to take a western destination trip in April/May sometime. I wrote an Inside Tracks article on this topic: <A HREF="http://webpages.charter.net/tcrocker818/late01.htm" TARGET="_top">http://webpages.charter.net/tcrocker818/late01.htm</A>. <BR> <BR>The required conditions, as stated in the article: By mid to late spring clear skies are optimal to produce overnight freezing with a softening surface during the day. Cloud cover tends to keep temperatures within a narrow range. If that range is warm, the snow will not freeze overnight and the ski surface will be slushy and grabby. If temps stay cold (without new snow), the snow will be icy or crusty. Overnight freezing followed by rapid and uniform heating of a settled and undisturbed snow surface produces the Holy Grail of spring skiing: corn snow. <BR> <BR>Low altitude eastern mountains do not often have the required spring weather, but as Marc noted it happened this time. On my Tucks trip the same weekend in 1990 it was plenty warm but had not frozen overnight. If the base is deep, the interior part of the snowpack is still frozen and skiing is still pretty good. <BR> <BR>The other key is that the snow needs to be undisturbed during the 1-2 hour softening process. This probably doesn't happen much with Tuck's skier traffic, but at GOS it's not an issue. I've even observed this on neglected groomed runs (like my last day at Telluride), but that must be very rare in the East. <BR> <BR>But there is no doubt that the backcountry variety is even better, and I've now observed it on 2 separate trips to Mt. Bachelor, the first May 3-4, 1990, right after my Tucks experience. The backside of its Summit is so vast and has such low skier density that the corn you describe forms any day the weather is right. Consider skiing 15-20K of that quality corn in 3-4 hours in your arithmetic equation! <BR> <BR>I must report that Corporate Skiing arrived at Mt. Bachelor 2 years ago with the purchase by Powdr Corp. (Park City, Alpine Meadows, etc.). For the full 360 degree skiing off Bachelor's summit to be accessible, both the Summit and Northwest lifts must run. April 25 was probably the last day for Northwest, despite the current reported base depth of 140+ inches. Bachelor now closes on Memorial Day despite having skiing on full coverage of 3,100 vertical to July 4 most seasons under prior management. I am optimistic that patronage from our large SoCal population base makes it unnecessary for Intrawest to consider similar cutbacks at Mammoth. <BR> <BR>The Eastern Sierra is probably the earn-your-turns backcountry corn capital of the world. Much of it requires overnight camping, like the famous Sierra Haute Route from Whitney Portal to Sequoia National Park. But there are also road-accessible day trips like my Tioga Pass experience last Memorial Day: <A HREF="http://www.firsttracksonline.com/discus2/messages/2508/2435.html?1054171250" TARGET="_top">http://www.firsttracksonline.com/discus2/messages/2508/2435.html?1054171250</A>. Even these are at 9,000-12,000 feet and require some altitude acclimatization.
 
Frank,GOS ski trail in the summer is pretty overgrown.And frankly,Frank I dont think they(USFS)really want too much foot travel on the ski trail.If you want to get a good look at the Gulf I would reccomend the Boot Spur Trail to Slide Peak then down Glen Boulder Trail to Direttissima Trail.This takes you around the rim of the Gulf and affords wonderful views and a nice loop.One of my favorites. <BR>((* <BR>*))NHPH
 
WOW, <BR> <BR>Great report and It looks like it was definitely worth it. Wish I could have gotten up there. <BR> <BR>porter
 
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