Patrick
Well-known member
That is the 1st edition of Thomas Perren’s maps. The 2nd edition is with a series of photographs.
South America 2024
- Thread starter ChrisC
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ChrisC
Well-known member
I discussed this a bit Here.
But I am making some headway finding a copy for a reasonable price, but running into Argentinian shipping issues/customs. This is a copy for about $35 USD Here.
As a backup, I am somewhat creating my own Thomas Perren, Thomas Maps: Las Leñas Out Of Bounds, primarily thanks to SnowBrains. Link
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ChrisC
Well-known member
I still do not want to commit to that long, but even the SnowBrain's guys recommend 10 days to 2 weeks.
I am more apt to go to Bariloched first (lots of decent flights from the international airport EZE to Bariloche) and ski for 3 days at Cerro Catedral. The Patagonian lakes, Bariloche town and Catedal's extensive high altitude terrain look like an attractive combination (lower slopes do not matter).
ChrisC
Well-known member
My Argentinian trip discount continues as the country's inflation continues at a typical clip. Now that the ski resorts have locked in their prices, USD dollar appreciation just provides a larger and larger discount. Trying not to put any USD dollars down until the last possible moment.
And if you get really lucky - Argentina announces an economic policy change which causes larger discounts. This has happened 2x over the last year. For example, the USD is almost worth 2x as much compared to last summer.
Very much a tragic situation for the people and country of Argentina, but it's been a continous cycle in modern history.
And if you get really lucky - Argentina announces an economic policy change which causes larger discounts. This has happened 2x over the last year. For example, the USD is almost worth 2x as much compared to last summer.
Very much a tragic situation for the people and country of Argentina, but it's been a continous cycle in modern history.
Patrick
Well-known member
From Bariloche you a relatively easy access to Cerro Bayo in Villa La Angustura and La Hoya in Esquel. Days spent over 2 trips (2008 and 2010).
Bayo : 2
Catedral: 4
La Hoya : 6
How do you get from Bariloche to Las Lenas? Fly to Mendoza? How often do those flights go? It's still a 4 (correction) hour drive from Mendoza to Las Lenas. With these extra logistics I agree you have less downtime, but I don't see how this trip is any shorter than two weeks. If the Argentine Lake District skiing is actually good, it could be three weeks. Patrick's best snow conditions were at La Hoya, but it's 5 hours drive from Bariloche. Cerro Bayo is daytrippable. However the Argentine Lake District resembles the Northeast or Australia that it's always one rainstorm away from crappy conditions. Would you have flexibility when to leave Bariloche for Mendoza?
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Patrick
Well-known member
Las Lenas is far from everything.
12h drive (986km) from Bariloche
3h53 drive (342km) from Mendoza.
Bariloche-Esquel is a fairly easy road on Route 40 (of course, I took the bus). 285km.
2010 TR from La Hoya
43 Below, ARG – 29 Aug-1 Sept 2010
To start off, let me pick a post from an earlier discussion on ski conditions in Chile from the Epic ski forum. Tony Crocker advises not to book South America on a La Nina ENSO year. Looks like he …
madpatski.wordpress.com
Current Blue Dollar rate is 1,415 pesos per USD. That's 10x the rate as when I was last in Argentina in Dec. 2020. So ChrisC should still take some crisp $100 bills on his trip.
ChrisC
Well-known member
I am really only interested in Bariloche/Catedral and Las Lenas for skiing.
While La Hoya, Cerro Chapelco, and Cerro Bayo look interesting, their ski maps, terrain descriptions, and reviews did not inspire me. Plus, all those resorts are a decent distance from Bariloche (except Cerro Bayo), and I would rather not expend the effort.
There are 2x daily direct flights between Bariloche and Mendoza. Car rentals are rather reasonable for a week, and there is a direct bus to Las Lenas. I am somewhat interested in seeing Mendoza and its wineries. (Previously, on a snowy overcast day in Santiago, I did not go skiing. Instead toured the city and did a winey in the later afternoon).
Alternatively, I might simply fly back to Buenos Aires from Bariloche late in the day after skiing and take the all-night direct bus to Las Lenas.
I am not completely wedded to going to Bariloche/Catedral if the snow is bad. However, it might still be interesting to play tourist in this area.
I thought the Argentinian exchange rates were floating, but that is not the case. Still lots of currency controls, but no hard pegs.
Also, Argentina almost has no more foreign exchange reserves/USDs to defend its Peso, so economists are forecasting it will have to float by the end of 2024.
I will pay for transportation and lodging on credit card.
Blue Dollar exchanged Pesos - hmmm - that might allow me to hire a Guide in Las Lenas if the ski school takes cash ($350). Need to check lift ticket payment methods. Definitely would be useful for meals.
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At the window of a ski area they really can’t refuse cash, presumably that would include a guide unless a freelance gringo. Same with restaurants and groceries.
I highly recommend Lo de Joaquin Alberti wine shop in Buenos Aires, where I shopped in both 2015 and 2020. You can buy wine there with USD cash at the blue dollar rate.
It’s far from clear to me that Catedral has any better skiing than other Lake District areas. It has bad exposure, an unreliable lower third and surely more crowds.
I highly recommend Lo de Joaquin Alberti wine shop in Buenos Aires, where I shopped in both 2015 and 2020. You can buy wine there with USD cash at the blue dollar rate.
It’s far from clear to me that Catedral has any better skiing than other Lake District areas. It has bad exposure, an unreliable lower third and surely more crowds.
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Standard operating procedure. That would not deter me from Las Lenas or Portillo, which with deep snowpacks have superb corn potential. Per Open Snow Catedral has had 21 inches in July, Corralco 29 inches and Las Lenas 16. Nothing at Valle Nevado or Portillo and 3 inches at Chillan.
Warning: Open Snow does not curate new snow reports; it picks them up from SnoCountry automated reporting. That automated reporting substantially overstated what Poritllo and Valle Nevado reported on their own websites for the big June storms.
ChrisC
Well-known member
Las Lenas received a 16" storm over the weekend after 3 dry weeks. After one sunny control day (Sunday), Marte was open today Monday! Things are looking good with a 3.1 meter base (122 inches) at the summit.
It's only been 2.5 weeks without significant snow in the Lakes Region/Bariloche of Argentina.
Storms looking likely for next week.
ChrisC
Well-known member
Points are taken, but I am still curious about Catedral. Supposedly, it's the largest single ski area in South America. It has a beautiful setting between the mountains and the lake. It has the town of Bariloche below and a nearby airport. Looks a bit like Queenstown, New Zealand.
The lower third of the Catedral does not look interesting: it has a bunch of catwalks and poorly covered faces. (They really need to install some really good lower mountain snowmaking. Essentially, they are Whistler.) However, the upper two-thirds of the mountain look really interesting, especially La Laguna Zone. Patrick should be able to provide input.
In-bounds (description from Powderhounds)
The in-bounds Nubes area has some great challenging terrain and offers to-die-for views. This rocky area has a range of chutes of varying degrees of difficulty. Unfortunately freshies don’t last long now that this area is no longer hike-to-terrain (unless of course the Nubes chair is closed). A hike up to the Punta Princesa area also offers gnarly terrain, but be mindful of the avalanche risk.
Sidecountry
Althought the resort removed the poma lift seving the area, it appears you can hike about part of the old poma line to get into the large bowl.
The Laguna area is a fave. It used to having a functioning poma lift but now it’s hike-to-terrain. A short 15 minute hike leads to the lower part of Laguna. This area has a cirque that offers an abundance of wide lines, cliffs and chutes. One gnarly sphincter-puckering chute is so exciting it will give you an erection (and I’m a chick)! A 45 minute hike up the ridge to the top leads to sweet long lines. Exit out through the trees near the bottom of Del Bosque or bamboo bashing may ensue.
I am warming up to a daytrip over to Cerro Bayo. The upper portion of the mountain looks really interesting. However, I understand the upper gondola does not run with regularity.
The Los Lagos double chair and the Lenga chair provide short but very sweet lines to the skiers’ left of the chair/s. Skiers’ right of the lift borders more towards expert terrain due to the pitch of the slope near the ridge (albeit only briefly steep), and if you leap off the cornice that typically forms, it definitely becomes expert terrain.
Other easy off-piste lines are the open zones between Cornisa and Del Sargento, off the top gondola.
Closer in towards the gondola is some superbly challenging backcountry type terrain, so only go in there with the right gear and plenty of idea. It was previously hike-to sidecountry terrain and it still is when the gondola is (frequently) closed, which obviously leads to fresh tracks lasting much longer. As this terrain is above the treeline, you see what you get. There are advanced lines in open bowls, and lines through rock features that range from expert to extreme, in part depending on the snow cover. Closer in, there are various trees, and when the tide is low there are various creeks, so navigate with caution.
ChrisC
Well-known member
Interesting article about "Money In Argentina: Currency Exchange, The Blue Dollar, And Getting The Best Rate" Link
It appears the credit card companies are starting to use an exchange rate closer to the Blue Dolla Rate:
Dolar MEP (Visa & MC) – The dolar MEP is similar to the blue rate in value, at the moment if you use a foreign (not Argentine) Visa or Mastercard in Argentina, you will be charged close to this rate, confirm exact rate here.
TLDR: How To Get Cash – Updated July 2024
This article has a ton of information in it but it can be overwhelming. I get regular questions on “but how specifically should I get pesos/spend money?” So, here you go, a quick answer.
Exchange dollar bills in Cuevas: The good ole classic, you can avoid WU fees and lines by changing money in person. The dolar blue is also typically the highest. You’ll get the most bang for your buck. Even if you prefer the ease of credit cards, you always need some cash for small shops, tips and cash discounts.
Western Union: The WU rate is advantageous but usually a bit lower than the blue dollar. It varies and uses the CCL rate as reference. But ease of not having to carry physical USD to exchange can be worthwhile. Take into account the transfer fees but overall, it’s offering competitive rates lately (and your first transfer is free, take advantage with a big first transfer).
Use your credit card: For ease, use you cards. Check daily rate here (always ARS to USD, not vice versa). Lately, the rate is lower than exchanging dollars and WU but is still higher than the official dollar. Many prefer the ease of using a card to the effort of exchanging money despite it being a bit lower rate.
ATMs – Avoid use unless your debit card refunds fees. Fees are high (average $10 US) and limits are very low. For emergencies only.
I always assumed credit card = official rate. ChrisC's link suggests that it's 1216 vs. 906 official and 1410 blue.
I see the usual TISA factors. Will the gondola at Cerro Bayo be open? How much hiking do you have to do to ski the best Laguna terrain at Catedral?
I Like ChrisC's plan overall. I just think it requires a two week minimum commitment. The December 2020 trip did raise my interest in revisiting during ski season. But I guess I'm getting old. It's hard to put together another big trip on short notice after the 5 weeks we just spent in Africa.
No question about that. I'm sure it's the most scenic ski area in South America. I understood the attraction after the December 2020 eclipse trip.
I see the usual TISA factors. Will the gondola at Cerro Bayo be open? How much hiking do you have to do to ski the best Laguna terrain at Catedral?
I Like ChrisC's plan overall. I just think it requires a two week minimum commitment. The December 2020 trip did raise my interest in revisiting during ski season. But I guess I'm getting old. It's hard to put together another big trip on short notice after the 5 weeks we just spent in Africa.
Patrick
Well-known member
Unlike Queenstown, Bariloche definitely has a city feel with a bit of Bavarian favour. It’s not Mendoza, but similarities are much closer to it than Queenstown which definitely has a touristy town vibes.
Memories are fading, yes the lower part wasn’t as interesting. La Laguna is a beautiful bowl. I have one picture from the other side of the cirque. Upper chair (Nubes) has a few short drops, fun when the snow is good.
Cerro Catedral, ARG – 2-3 Sept 2010
What a difference a 4 hour bus ride north makes. This morning at the bus stop, they were more Americans at that stop than all of the ski area I was skiing the previous 4 days. The fact that Bariloc…
madpatski.wordpress.com
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