Europe 24/25

Oh yeah - all that effort for 3-4 days. Most of your trip is just transit.

And if the weather is snowy in Europe? Half of your four days are potentially gone if you get one medium-to-big storm. With whiteout, wind, and avalanche remediation, it can easily take 24-48 hours for a ski resort to recover.
The non experts in the group could find some fun skiing pistes through the trees at Courchevel.
But you’re right. Even with pro guides it was hard going in snowy weather last April at 3 Valleys.
 
Some base-building snow is coming to Europe, especially the Western Alps. About 60-80" at most of the majors, with slightly lesser amounts in E Switzerland/Austria.

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I plan on flying into Zurich to ski Engelberg or Lech with UK friends and then heading off to other areas in Austria (stay in Solden - ski Solden, Obergurgl, Pitztzal??) and possibly others (Kitzbuhel base - ski Kitzbuhel, Saalbach using Fieberbrunn gateway, Zell Am See or Kaprun).

However, adding a wild card to the mix, the London guys suggested cheap cat-skiing in North Macedonia. Me—why not? It looks pretty good, primarily high alpine terrain and not very rocky. It seems like it requires less snow base than other snowcat operations. Link

(These are some of the same guys who thought skiing in the Caucasus Mountains in ex-Russian Army helicopters in the 2000s would be great. Me: hard pass. But a few of them did go to Gulmarg, India, in the Himalayas for an interesting adventure. Link)


Skiing & snowboarding in North Macedonia is not hinged on its couple of reasonable ski resorts, but mainly on backcountry powder & some of Europe's longest running and best cat skiing operations. Additionally, North Macedonia is a surprising melting pot of cultures with an amazing history plus cuisine that needs to be eaten to be believed!

North Macedonia is attractive as a powder ski destination because of its abundance of snow & lack of local freeriders (lots of freshies for visitors!) in a country that is incredibly affordable & cheap but with a people, culture & food that are gold-plated.
 
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We have finalized both the tourism and skiing schedule in Uzbekistan Feb. 12-28. As I noted in that Oct. 30 post I think Gulmarg has too high a probability of very restricted skiing due to avalanche exposure.

The North Macedonia cat skiing looks intriguing and is a screaming bargain by North American standards. I had Popova Sapka on my Google Earth file already. The Powderhounds site mentions a lot of sun exposed terrain so I would stick to January/first half of February for North Macedonia.
 
Fraser's weekly report from yesterday on Weather To Ski:

Friday 22 November 2024​

Welcome to our first full snow report of the 2024-25 ski season, which starts with some good news for the Alps, some regions having seen a lot of snow this week, most of which has fallen in the north-western half – i.e. most of the French Alps (away from the far south), most of the Swiss Alps, the far western Italian Alps (e.g. La Thuile) and the far western Austrian Alps (e.g. Lech). Most of these regions have seen close to or more than 1m of new snow at altitude since Monday, with a little less in the Austrian Arlberg, and a little more in parts of the northern French and western Swiss Alps.

The rest of the Alps have also seen some snow although snowfall totals have been modest across most of Austria, the far southern French Alps, parts of southern Switzerland (notably Ticino) and the eastern Italian Alps (Dolomites). That said, the colder weather has allowed snow making to operate at full throttle, meaning that areas such as the Dolomites should, as usual, be able to open most of their pistes over the next two to three weeks.

The bad news for the Alps is that it is going to get much warmer over the weekend as a strong south-westerly airflow takes hold. This will create Foehn conditions across the northern Alps which will quickly melt most of the lower-lying snow, especially close to the foothills. This warmer weather shouldn’t last too long though, with another drop in temperature (though probably not much snow) likely later next week.

Whatever the case, we should emphasise that although this week’s storms have pretty much guaranteed a good start to the season for several high Alpine ski resorts (especially in the north-western Alps), it is still too early to be getting excited about the prospects for this winter’s ski season in most Alpine ski areas.

Across the pond the most impressive early season snow conditions are to be found in the Pacific North-west.

Austria​

In the Austrian Alps, the heaviest of the snow from this week’s storms has fallen in the far western Vorarlberg, in resorts such as Lech and Warth-Schröcken, which aren’t due to open for a couple of weeks. Further east, snowfalls have generally been more modest but have still provided useful top-ups for the handful of resorts already open. Most of these are on glacier areas like Hintertux (50/85cm), however Sölden (5/130cm) and Obergurgl (30/70cm) are both offering non-glacial terrain and should be offering some decent piste-skiing once the weather settles down this weekend.

Temperatures will turn much milder next week with Foehn conditions melting any low-lying snow, especially across the central and northern Austrian Alps.

View of the snow-covered ski slopes and village centre in Lech, Austria – Weather to ski – Snow report, 22 November 2024

Lech is one of the Austrian ski resorts that has seen a lot of snow this week, although it’s not scheduled to open until 6 December

France​

There has been a lot of fresh snow in the French Alps this week, with well over 1m at altitude in the Tarentaise where Tignes now has settled snow depths of 35/100cm and should be able to offer some excellent conditions for its opening day tomorrow (Saturday).
Another French ski resort that has seen significant snowfall and will be in good conditions when it opens tomorrow is Val Thorens (45/60cm). Note, though, that in both cases the new snow has been very windblown and that off-piste conditions remain sketchy for now.

Over the weekend and into next week, the French Alps can expect much milder conditions. This shouldn’t have too much of an adverse effect on Val Thorens and Tignes, though much of the lower-lying snow will melt again in resorts that are not scheduled to open for a while.

Lots of snow on the ski slopes of Tignes, France – Weather to ski – Snow report, 22 November 2024

Heavy snow has fallen this week in Tignes, which opens tomorrow (Saturday)

Italy​

In the Italian Alps, it is the western ski resorts that have seen the most snow from the recent storms. Here, one of the few Italian ski resorts currently open, Cervinia (60/150cm) should be offering some great skiing with more and more terrain opening once authorities have had a chance to assess the slopes. Further east, there has been less snow, but this week’s colder temperatures have allowed snowmaking to operate at full throttle, which is great news for the resorts in the Dolomites, many of which will start opening over the next week or two.

Bright skies and panoramic views over the snowy mountainside and valleys in Kronplatz, Dolomites, Italy – Weather to ski – Snow report, 22 November 2024

Looking wintry in Kronplatz in the Dolomites, where snowmaking has been operating at full throttle in recent days

Switzerland​

Most of the Swiss Alps have seen significant new snow this week which is great news for the handful of resorts already open, and others that plan to open soon. Zermatt (20/270cm) is already offering good skiing and should be excellent shape this weekend following the last few days’ heavy snowfalls. Verbier (45/70cm) has also done well and is currently opening more and more pistes.

This weekend and into next week the weather will turn much milder in the Swiss Alps, which will melt much of the lower-lying snow, especially in the northern Alps where conditions will be exacerbated by the Foehn.

Snow falling in Engelberg, Switzerland, with view of two mountain buildings in the distance – Weather to ski – Snow report, 22 November 2024

It’s still snowing in Engelberg today where conditions should be excellent once the weather settles down

USA​

Early season snow conditions are generally good in the western US, and most impressive in the Pacific north-west where Mount Baker already boasts a 220cm upper base and has more snow in the forecast this weekend.

Heavy snow is also forecast for California over the next few days which should help expand the available terrain in Mammoth (70cm upper base).

Over in Colorado, Breckenridge is one of many resorts now open (albeit partially) with a 50cm upper base and some heavy snow also forecast next week.

View of the chairlift and skiers, and snow-covered ski slopes and valley in Mount Baker in the Pacific North-west, USA – Weather to ski – Snow report, 22 November 2024

Early season snow conditions are excellent in Mount Baker – 22 November 2024

Canada​

In Canada, Whistler (126cm mid-mountain base) is enjoying an excellent start to the season thanks to multiple snowfalls in recent weeks and nearly 1m up top in the last seven days alone. Further inland, snow depths are much more modest in the Banff-Lake Louise area but here too you can find some decent piste-skiing, with 30cm of new snow in the last week and a 60cm upper base.
 
All that snow to the Alps is working nicely, in particular France and Switzerland. Yeah, the snow might warm up a little and eat away at the lower slopes, but still. North Macedonia’s cat skiing has an unusually high stakes wild card for me, which sounds like a solid bet if you’re after something off the beaten path.
 
I saw the iconic Cime Caron Cable Car went down for the season in Val Thorens. It has the greatest vertical drop and serves the steepest terrain in the valley, but there is a workaround. This might preserve this area for days + off-piste areas.

This was the only lift in late April that could sport 40 min lines mid-day.



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Grindelwald photo -- one of the most stunning ski areas in the world and that's the pic they post
I'm always surprised how different iconic peaks look from varied directions. We never went near Grindelwald last January as we knew the snow would be crappy down there.
 
This just in from the NYT (check out the Grindelwald photo -- one of the most stunning ski areas in the world and that's the pic they post).

I stayed in Grindelwald and loved it.

AM View at breakfast from the hotel - mountains, I believe, from left to right (The Wetterhorn, Schreckhorn and Eiger)

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When I visited in the summer years ago, people said the skiing was so-so. However, I liked it and found some off-piste powder. Murren can offer excellent expert off-piste skiing.

Note: Murren is replacing all of its trams, and summit access will not be available until 2026. Schlithornbahn Project: The first section went live this year. You can still get to Birg.

Also, First is replacing its main gondola with an S3 model.
 
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Some insane lifts are coming to Europe in the next year or so:

My favorite is at Flims-Laax, where an on-demand gondola will take you to a selected destination - 4 available. Many gondola cars go unused, so it prevents hauling unnecessary cars up the mountain. Amazing! Link

 
European conditions look pretty strong so far. Austria (St. Anton, etc.) had a fantastic powder during Christmas.

Even the lower resorts - Megeve, Gstaad - are more than 80-90% open.

Looks like more is on the way. Here is just a sample of Euro resorts I track:

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Great write-up on how Europe affords expensive new lifts.



All Aboard Les 2 Alpes’ New Jandri Express

Tim Clark​

15 Dec 24​

Four decades ago the existing Jandri Express opened its doors in Les Deux Alpes and heralded a sea change in access for the French high altitude resort. In a mere 40 minutes skiers could access the mountain at 3,200 metres and enjoy some of the longest ski runs Europe had to offer all the way down to resort level at 1,600 metres.

However times have changed however and, forty years later, Les Deux Alpes has undergone another revolution. Earlier this month the new Jandri 3S lift began operations and can whisk skiers the 2,000 metres up to glacier level in only 17 minutes.

As I arrive at the base of the ski lift to collect my ski pass the generational shift in technology and investment becomes obvious. Rather than some glorified portacabin the entrance looks like a Westfield. Three classic cabins are strung across its glass facade.

All Aboard Les 2 Alpes’ New Jandri Express


SATA the lift company which operates Les Deux Alpes, Alpe d-Huez and La Grave have invested €139m into the Jandri 3S lift, with a long-term loan that will be repaid over the next 22 years.​

SATA chief executive Fabrice Boutet says the loan is akin to a mortgage

“Financially it was two years of negotiations to have a term of contract,” he says, adding that a consortium of French banks have backed the new lift. The lift is a core part of SATA’s development plan, and was included in their proposal to take on the operation of Les Deux Alpes in 2020 from previous operator CDA in 2020.
“Our raison d-etre is to take the social approach, and the economic approach to this area. So we don’t want to go to Savoir [region] or everywhere we want to focus on this territory, we are a territory company.

“Our company is a mix between the public shareholders and private. The public is the majority owner of the company, with 54% of the capital of the company with the [public] shareholders, the 46% is from private shareholders.”

The new lift serves three purposes. The first is building capacity by over doubling the number of skiers from 1,300 per hour to 3,000 who can gain access to the upper slopes, the second reason is to cut down on mounting maintenance costs of keeping the Jandri Express lift operations and build a lift which can operate in poor weather conditions, the third is resilience against climate change.

All Aboard Les 2 Alpes’ New Jandri Express


Les Deux Alpes is preparing for a warmer climate by reshaping some of the ski runs, building beginner areas higher up the piste such as the one planned at 2,600 metres, and taking a look at what the mountain can offer in terms of skiing variety.

How this will play out remains to be seen, however the region looks to be building resilience and capacity into their offer in advance of changes to the Alps, and anticipating the possible closure of lower altitude ski resorts in the years to come.

Jandri 3S has done away with ten of the pylons needed for the Jandri Express. Seven giant towers take the weight of the cabins compared to a previous 17. A series of elaborate steel contraptions act effectively as cable ties in-between the spans to allow less impact on the ground.

Above the gondola station is where the real engineering happens. A series of wheels each turning at a slightly different speed slows the cabins from their cruising speed of 8 metres a second to only one metre per second as they arrive, or speed them up to then eject them up the mountain. The giant coil of cable acts as an anchor, relying on friction of the cable against itself to take the load.

All Aboard Les 2 Alpes’ New Jandri Express


Having stepped aboard, it’s fair to say it is fast. According to our guides from SATA, with a top speed of eight metres per second, or 28.8km per hour, the Jandri lift is apparently fastest a ski lift can go, legally, anywhere in the world. I ask if it can go faster

“No, it’s the law.” they add firmly.
The cabins sway slightly as they arrive at the mid-station, like a ride at Chessington World of Adventures. Skiers disembark and head off to explore the piste.

Fifty yards away the old Jandri Express is still running, chugging away with its careworn cabins. SATA have kept the lower half of the lift operating as an insurance policy against teething problems in the new system. Jandri Express will be dismantled in May at the end of the winter season.

The new lift forms the centre of a transformation plan for the three resorts operated by SATA which will be complete by the 2026/27 season. One new ski lift that the ski company has categorically ruled out is the link between Les Deux Aples and Alpe d’Huez. Boutet signalling that is not part of their plans. Similarly, SATA are keen to stress that the ski adventurer’s playground of La Grave will stay relatively untouched for the foreseeable future.

“We want to keep the DNA of La Grave as it is,” Boutet adds.
According to Boutet the major new lift schemes are now completed, however in Les Deux Alpes they are working on improving the lower slopes and adding some snow cannons strategically across the resort in areas where the wind or slopes mean snow cover is scant. Only about 20% of the runs are currently covered with snow cannons, the aim is to increase that to 40%.

In Alpe d’Huez the lift company is looking to improve access and guide skiers onto less crowded slopes, taking the strain off of the main runs. According to SATA, 80% of skiers use only 20% of runs. By fanning them out more efficiently, the resorts can keep congestion down

The development project rumbles on, however as skiers clambering out of the the Jandri 3S can attest, the hard work has been done.
 
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