Europe 24/25

I had to look into Zermatt. I think it's going on almost year 3 of 'no opening' of the Yellow Freeride Itineraries at Hohtalli/Rote Nase, and now even Rothorn.

Assume there is almost no off-piste/freeride skiing on the Swiss side of the Matterhorn Ski Paradise (i.e. Zermatt). This is also incredibly high alpine, rocky terrain - your skis will pay the price!

Yellow = Closed Freeride Areas. Conditions must be simply icy skied-off groomers for the most part. Cervinia seems much better.

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Finally, I found some off-piste Cervinia freeride maps by local Italians. Never knew where any of the lines were since there are not many written guides describing Zermatt-Cervinia.

Cervinia - Plateau Rosa / Testa Grigia
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Numbers will bounce around, and storm tracks will change, but SW/W Alps might do the best. However, OpenSnow models change in a heartbeat, even 24-48 hours out, so all I would take is that a stormy pattern might return to the Alps.

Even Zermatt and the Monterosa ski areas might get some snow......

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I also get easily confused at night about how to get on auto trains in Switzerland through mountain passes. I cannot read any signs/directions, so I just wait to follow someone else. Never sure where to pay tolls for these trains - but they are fun as hell! I have done 3 different ones now.

Most Swiss car trains are in/out of the mountainous SW Valais area. It can add time when trying to get from Jungfrau/Interlaken, Engelberg, and Andermatt to --> Zermatt, Saas Fee, Grimentz/Zinal, Verbier, etc.

The five car trains in Switzerland:
  • Furka: car train between Oberwald (Valais) and Realp (near Andermatt). Reservation isn’t possible. An alternative is the Furka Pass road.
  • Lötschberg: car train between Kandersteg (Bernese Oberland) and Goppenstein (Valais). You can’t make reservations. There is no alternative road.
  • Simplon: car train between Brig (Valais) and Iselle (Italy). Reservations aren’t possible. An alternative is the Simplon Pass road.
  • Lötschberg and Simplon combined: direct car train between Kandersteg (Bernese Oberland) and Iselle (Italy). Reservations are required. There is no alternative pass road.
  • Vereina: car train between Selfranga (Klosters) and Sagliains (Lower Engadine). Reservations are not necessary. An alternative is the Flüela Pass road.
  • (Oberalp: the former car train between Andermatt and Sedrun [Graubünden] has been discontinued in 2023.)
 
Will look at Alpinforum reports for recent photos and descriptions.

I was looking at Euro conditions on a few more sites.


You can also see from the Swiss government's snow site that snow totals are relatively low for this time of year - mostly in the east and lower elevations.

However, there are average snowfall areas (yellow seems like a weird neutral color to use): West: PduS, Verbier/Valais, Central: Engelberg/Jungfrau, South Central: Airolo...maybe Diavolezza. February was quite dry - you can click into individual snow sites under Measured Values for daily snowfall.

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Verbier - Lac des Vaux - 2550m.
After a decent Dec/Jan, things dried out in Feb.

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Another excellent site for Swiss snow bases and forecasts.

I did not have time to check out Laucheralp this year (like Tony did last year). And Melschsee - never knew existed before this sort.

Getting from Central to SW Switzerland is a 3hr+ trip, but a lot of that is on a car train, so it does not count.

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Wepowder had an update on conditions. They seemed a bit negative during this high-pressure week. https://wepowder.com/en/weblog/2025/03/02/sunny-and-increasingly-mild

This is a bit of a bad-angle photo coming out of Kitzbuhel - looking north from <1000m town at south-facing slopes. Conditions will not be good outside the Arlberg/Swiss border ( Saalbach, Kitz, SkiWelt, etc).

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. FYI, my guide from the Dolomites has taken up residency in Engelberg.
James, you might want to get this guy’s contact info from ChrisC, especially if he’s charging Italian vs. Swiss guide prices!

That Airolo clip looks nice. Airolo is probably close enough to Andermatt to get some of its microclimate benefits.
 
A clip of Airolo yesterday -- one of my likely stops during the upcoming trip. Good cover/could use a refresher. LOL, that guy's Swiss-German accent could peel the paint from walls.

Hopefully, snow will return next weekend/week.

I'll stop posting these. I'm sure my list of Alps sites looks different than James's.

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Will you guys stop complaining? Oh, it's high pressure. Europe gets no snow.

It's going to be good - more so towards Val d'Isere. Red is scary.

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I had hoped to ski powder obviously. And if not that corn. Looks like I’m going to get flat light and flurries.
 
When are you in Tignes exactly?

I'm in Meribel March 10-16, then 17-18 in Val d'Isere... logistics would probably never work, but interesting FTO timing.

James should be on the ground shortly.
 
When are you in Tignes exactly?

I'm in Meribel March 10-16, then 17-18 in Val d'Isere... logistics would probably never work, but interesting FTO timing.

James should be on the ground shortly.
I get in to Tignes on the 15th of March. I have the 16th as a free day and then I have 4 out of the next five days in a course. The one day I don’t ski in the course I’ll be with my wife and had half planned to go to Saint Foy and get a guide for the day but that would be highly weather dependent. The 18th might just work. I’ll be sure to check on how things are going for you in Tre Vallees. Looks like you might get some fresh snow.
 
@ChrisC if the predicted snow comes I might try to hook up with Alpine Experience on the Sunday so I can take Kylie for her first guided experience. Do you think they would cater to a timid but basically capable 50 year old novice off piste skier? (She had a ball skiing the fresh snow at Grand Targhee a couple of months ago. I'm sure she would be able to handle skiing the meadow type terrain at Val DÍsere).
 
Debating if I ever bother to return for the hassles and costs involved. Does not help that I'm not a foodie nor 'oh... the culture' kinda guy on a ski trip. Couldn't care less when I'm dragging 100 lbs of stuff around the world. I go on ski trips to ski, so if the skiing isn't worth it, then the trip isn't much worth it.
I certainly understand coming to that conclusion without the food/culture draw to soften the blow and the added indignity of leaving your close-by home ski region while it's getting a nice shot of fresh snow. It all goes back to Fraser's statement "nothing shapes your impression of a ski area quite like the conditions you encounter on the slopes. Rightly or wrongly, the quality of the snow (never mind the state of the weather) can make or break your holiday." Tony mentioned that Liz felt so burned by her initial Alps visit that she didn't go back for 13 years and probably wouldn't have if he hadn't been persistent.

I stick by my assessment that euro gets big snow storms and then nothing worthwhile for weeks at a time.
That's not just your assessment; it's frequently reality. I went through a remarkable period from the mid-2010s to the early 2020s of nailing a large number of powder days over there. I recall Tony describing it as "James's enviable luck in the Alps." Unfortunately, my past two trips (Val d'Isere last year and this just-finished one) have been pretty dry. The best of all worlds (not always possible) is being able to "last-minute" everything based on a favorable short-term forecast. I've redirected from a high-and-dry Utah to the Alps during a big storm cycle and in reverse also bagged two trips to the Alps when conditions looked mediocre.

Long story short, I agree that for you the time/money/logistics are probably not worth the danger of getting skunked. A bummer that it happened not just to you but also your group of friends.
 
Part of my combination is that I've had many trips to France and Germany over the years mostly paid by my companies at the time. So I find little remaining value in the food/culture stuff. Been there and done that, food has never been a big thing for me anyway.

As you note, given my Colo location I'd rather pay for a 2nd shot at cat skiing or multiple days of drivable skiing goodness or a multitude of much, much higher good snow probability scenarios (Japow).

Which is not to say I will never go to Europe again, just probably never for skiing specifically and likely to new regions I've never been (Baltics, several former east block areas, etc...)
 
I went through a remarkable period from the mid-2010s to the early 2020s of nailing a large number of powder days over there. I recall Tony describing it as "James's enviable luck in the Alps."
Liz and I enjoyed the last half of that run of powder filled trips, 4 of them in the 2017 through 2019 seasons, plus the 2014 Zermatt trip that changed Liz' mind about the Alps. 2023 was probably similar to many western trips with powder only on the 3 Via Lattea days out of a 17 day trip. But I'll contend those Via Lattea days were way more enjoyable than a typical powder frenzy at a western US resort.

Nonetheless, if you don't think a ski trip is a success unless you get a lot of powder, you're going to be unhappy on something like 3/4 of one week advance planned ski trips. Cat/heli or January in Japan are the only places you can do any better with advance booking. It becomes more obvious with EMSC's posts that given his lack of flexibility, those are the options for destination skiing that he would enjoy most.

Other criteria:
1) Is there enough off piste skiing with pleasant surfaces, even if not powder? This is the minimum that ChrisC or EMSC would want. From reading ChrisC's reports, you can see that there is lift accessible terrain far beyond what we have in North America that has to be appealing to skiers of EMSC's caliber. ChrisC is sometimes over there like EMSC now with an advanced booked group, but hangs around for another week on his own to chase some of that big mountain skiing.

We'll have to wait for more detail from EMSC, but Trois Vallees has enough high quality off piste to have an enjoyable week even if not powder. I've had quite a few Iron Blosam weeks like that as most of you know. Our week in Trois Vallees started out worse than EMSC's I suspect. The base was thinner and it had not snowed for 3 weeks when we arrived. My ESF guide managed to show us some interesting off piste on the first two 9AM-1PM sessions, and after the second one I ripped 16K vertical in 2 hours of butter smooth groomer corn in Orelle. So despite my fanatic efforts to improve the odds of a good advance planned trip, once I'm there I try to make some lemonade out of the lemons.

Val d'Isere a year ago was also without new snow and a majority of off piste had been wind hammered or melt/frozen. However, since I had been there before I poked around and found some quality off piste routes, something one of our two guides had failed to do. I'll be interested to see how that goes with EMSC at the end of the week. Val d'Isere's off piste terrain quality is exceptional IMHO, and if even a modest fraction of it has decent snow I'd be surprised if EMSC is disappointed.

2) So the next question is how unhappy will you be if mostly confined to groomers? After that run of lucky trips 2017-2019 we have had quite a few of those days. We enjoy those still given the scale, scenery and especially if it's a new place we have not been before. The scale of so many of those new places has been such that we often skip lunch because there is so much to see, then indulge our foodie cravings at dinner. On longer trips we don't mind at all if a majority of the days are like this. I think it's clear EMSC does not find this acceptable.

3) The worst case scenario in the Alps is the bad weather/bad vis days, especially if there is little terrain below tree line (Val Thorens being a good example) or if it's raining at low elevation. With this kind of forecast, we take off in the car and do something other than ski. That was Liz' first rip in 2001, and if you are on a typical one week package deal you are kind of stuck.

I had only skied in the Alps twice before retirement. Neither of those trips had powder but I did get to ski high quality off piste terrain at Grands Montets, Verbier and La Grave. But for EMSC's standards I would not advocate returning to the Alps for skiing until he can implement a flexible schedule like ChrisC and I do. For his guys' trips with mixed abilities and a limited number of days, it's not a great idea.
 
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if you don't think a ski trip is a success unless you get a lot of powder, you're going to be unhappy on something like 3/4 of one week advance planned ski trips.
Will say that it doesn't have to be big powder, but cannot be primarily a combination of hard scrapey or refrozen stuff, wind stripped, or thick slop well above 40F at lower altitudes (mostly only remaining snow on snowmaking pistes down lower).

Just nicely winter softish snow on most aspects and altitudes would suffice. Currently only found in a few select highest altitude north facing areas. We're making it work best we can and you’ll see a few nice pics soon, but it's very limited to a relatively tiny portion of a couple of the highest lifts, with 5cm today on the top 1500-2000 feet of verts which helps some.

Doing best to make lemonade, but a tiny handful of pitches being decent in the largest ski complex in the world feels very limiting and quite far from being a solid value proposition for my dollars.

In short it is not a surprise to me anymore why so few Americans bother to ski the Alps and instead focus on the western US/Canada. The odds are simply so much better not to mention the hassles of currency, language, time change, etc.. for most folks. I'm sure the 10-20% of the year that the snow is good that the off-piste is probably great in Europe. But certainly not worth booking ahead of time. More like the Eastern US; book last minute when you see the storms lined up (and I don't have that flexibility for now).
 
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